California Mission Trail 2012

The final 16.7 miles landed me at the Statue of Junipero Serra at the very first of the 21 missions. I was full of emotion as I embraced him--882 miles with lots of mini-experiences that have re-charged me in their own way. I have an AMTRAK ticket back home where I need some time to reflect on all of it. Thanks to all for their support and good wishes--they had their magical effect in the background.

Today's oceanside trek of 26 miles brought me to the UC San Diego campus where our son picked me up just in time--I was pretty tired from the long haul. A dinner at Old Mex Cafe rejuvenated me. The brisk morning started out with breakfast at Angelo's--you can see Alfonso with an apprehensive stare about the trip coming to an end tomorrow (check out the photo). Neither of us want our adventure to end, but both of us need time to reflect on it all and move on. The route saturated us with so many scenes of beautiful beaches and quaint beach cities (Carlsbad, Encinitas, Del Mar, Solano Beach, etc.) and of course state beaches all on historic route 101, the El Camino.

A 14.7-mile round trip took me to Mission San Luis Rey via the San Luis Rey Bike Path that ran along the (you guessed it) San Luis Rey River. The low of 38 deg F didn't deter any cyclists or joggers (or even hikers) from plying their sport. This 18th (of the 21) mission was named after the French King Luis IX (as was St Louis, Missouri) who ruled in the 13th century--and hence called the king of the missions. He was the only French King to be canonized. (I'm standing next to the statue of St. Luis, normally situated above the main altar.) The mission is still undergoing a state-mandated seismic retrofit, due to be completed by Jan '13. Although mass is now held in the huge Serra Center, one can still visit the old mission and sense its former grandeur. It was built in the shape of a cross (only one other one was as well) and it claims to be the largest of the missions.

Today's nearly 22 miles was totally coastal taking me past the San Onofre Nuclear Power Plant, that's been shut down indefinitely since Jan 12 due to the release of small amounts of radioactive steam caused by premature wear found on tubes in the steam generators. I included a photo of the iconic containment vessels (aka the Dolly Parton Memorial). The path then continued through the San Onofre State Beach, a scenic coastal canyon park (I included just one of many breathtaking views).

Then a turn under the freeway to the other side led me onto Camp Pendelton. Cyclists can enter with just an ID, but hikers need a military ID. That also means that anyone with a military ID can sponsor a group entry!

Cumulative mileage now stands at 817 mi with only two more missions and 73 more miles to go. From the motel it was only 3.6 mi along a creek (with concrete bed) that actually had water flowing and ducks in the water. Mission San Juan Capistrano was the 7th mission founded by Father Junipero Serra on Nov 1, 1776. Unique among all the missions is the presence of a great stone church ruin caused by an 1812 earthquake. The stone church was started in 1797 and completed in 1806. It was never rebuilt and not structurally stabilized until 2004. So much activity there: no less than three school groups on tour; a funeral mass in the Serra Chapel (which is the only known mission still standing where Fr. Serra celebrated mass--it was completed in 1788); at least four artists busy at heir easel; and a large construction crew building a new entrance. I took the audio tour and found it quite interesting. Wine is purported to have started being produced at this mission, from where it spread to other missions! One can see the outdoor grape press.

After visiting the mission, I returned the same way to Dana Point and then pretty much walked along the ocean beaches to San Clemente. From here it'll be more oceanfront as I pass San Onofre nuclear power plant and Camp Pendleton.

Today's intermittently drizzly 21-mile walk through wall-to-wall beach cities was exciting. There's a different air about everything. Shops with hoity-toity names featured a range of products and services you'd only see here (and surely in Beverly Hills). I point to just a single example: a car spa with membership provisions, on and on--this is obviously for your very high-end cars! I couldn't begin to explain all this to Alfonso. Oh, speaking of him, I managed to capture a photo of him as he usually sits to dine with me-- check it out.

And a final thought. Nature knows how to "go with the flow." Check out the photo of the tree blown down by nature's forces. The tree simply hugs the ground and keeps right on growing! It's going with the flow--a lesson for all of us. BTW, so many breathtaking views of the ocean brought be to the doorstep of the 19th mission (Mission San Juan Capistrano) that I'll see tomorrow.

I'm very grateful for Joanie's and Jim's hospitality in hosting a pilgrim in their lovely house last night--thank you! Today's trek of 15.3 miles includes a mile or so going north on the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) to avoid the high-rent district and to avoid using my tent, which I didn't even bring on this leg. My walk was nearly the extent of Harbor Blvd. heading due south. One of the more interesting photos captures some great garden sculptures--nearly an entire zoo. I also had some explaining to do to Alfonso about what these machines were doing just a few blocks from our motel.

I'm also recapping the end-game as I arrive in San Diego: Arrive: Thu, 11/8 Dana Point (20 mi) Arrive: Fri, 11/9 mission San Juan Capistrano / San Clemente Motel (14 mi) Arrive: Sat, 11/10 Oceanside Motel (walk through Camp Pendleton) (23 mi) Arrive: Sun, 11/11 Mission San Luis Rey and return to Oceanside Motel (10 mi) Arrive: Mon, 11/12 Cardiff by the Sea (stay with Sean) (12+ mi) Arrive. Tue, 11/13 San Diego (15+ mi) (stay with Sean) Arrive: Wed, 11/14 Mission San Diego (15+ mi) (stay with Sean) Arrive: Thu, 11/15 Ventura via train.

Alfonso was aghast during today's 15+ miles as we went from one city to the next--all that concrete! We woke up in Whittier, went through La Mirada, then Buena Park, a tad of Fullerton (which brought back memories of working a proposal with Hughes Fullerton back in '89), and finally Anaheim. He had trouble comprehending the concept of "Disneyland." Nothing like that existed 200 years ago! "Going on rides" was completely foreign! I had trouble explaining it to Alfonso! Note the record shot in front of the Disneyland entrance.

Tonight I have the pleasure of staying with fellow American Pilgrims fairly close to Disneyland! They're friends of Grant's/Anita's and have graciously opened their house to me. The kindness that's come my way on this adventure is astounding!

It was nature's last chance to lash out at me with a 93-degree temperature during this adventure. With only an 11.5 mile trip, it had little effect on me except to drink more. Rumor has it that the temperature will fall markedly during my final 8 days. Daydreaming about my ensuing book on the Mission Walk and captivated by one of my American Pilgrim's (Grant's) suggestions of using a historical figure (rather than simply my "Hugo" buddy), I dwelled on, we'll call him Alfonso, his utter disbelief of the miles of concrete we were walking on. When Alfonso last saw this area there were dirt paths connecting pueblos and missions. But Alfonso's eyes lit up as we passed Pio Pico's hacienda--he was familiar with the haciendas of his day. He also asked me if the black thing in front of the Pio Pico Marker was an offering. I simply said, "Maybe," and changed the subject. Incidentally, Pico's history pervades that of Southern California, but no less important is Pico's medical history of his acromegaly and almost miraculous cure in old age caused by a pituitary apoplexy--it's amazing and worth a google!

My 19-mile journey started in the heart of Glendale then went east through Pasadena. A hearty breakfast at the Pasadena Central Park Cafe had me backtrack a bit, but it was well worth it. Turning south on Los Robles and onto Garfield, I passed through San Marino and Alhambra, and then turning east onto Mission Rd, I finally arrived in the small city of San Gabriel with its beautiful mission (4th in the series of 21). Bottom line: wall-to-wall cities. Of course it'll be that way for nearly the rest of the walk (except for Camp Pendleton). Cumulative mileage stands at 739 miles with only 3 missions left and 9 days to go!

So many pics to choose from, but here are the finalists--things you don't see every day: a 36-line high-power electric feed (this is NOT a small town getting electricity!); taking a break across the Norton Simon Museum; waiting in line to buy their iPad Mini; a huge mural on the Alhambra US Post Office; and several photos of Mission San Gabriel.

My plans for a 13-mile day were dashed when I discovered that my planned motel had no vacancy (the dreaded "completo" sign on the Camino). I kissed it off and just kept walking and walking until I discovered the Maryland Hotel (on my route) for the pilgrim price of $44+ tax--and I'm one block from a vibrant Glendale downtown area. It doesn't get any better than that. And, the receptionist and I have a deal: I won't bring a pet (as per regulation), if she doesn't unleash any little critters on me during the night!! So we have a deal! My 18+ miles were delightful as I walked for miles and miles along Laurel Canyon Blvd. The three most impressive facets were the San Gabriel mountains not far to my left watching over me (they actually stayed with me for the entire day); the many, many wrought iron fences around the properties (from ultra ornate to plain Jane, all serving as a demarcation of what's outside and what's inside); and lastly I saw dozens and dozens of colorful "garage" sales along the way. Another interesting site was passing the San Fernando Valley Racing Pigeon Club! You've got to ask yourself how often you've passed such a club in your lifetime, and only then make fun of my excitement over it! Because of the extra five miles today, I see myself making it to Mission San Gabriel tomorrow and overnighting it in Rosemead tomorrow as well (that means one less day). That'll only make for a 17-mile day.

A 22+ mile day got me over the Santa Susana Pass with its rugged boulders strewn everywhere--the old road connected the early settlements and served the stage coaches as well as the missions. Specifically the pass connects the San Fernando Valley with Simi Valley.

At the end of the old pass road, I took Topanga Canyon to Devonshire and headed east on it at breakneck speed to make it before the mission closed at 4:30. The super-friendly staff helped me make it in time! A sheer coincidence is the fact that this mission was my 17th as well as having been founded 17th! The fourth mission church, the gem we see today, is an exact replica of the earlier one erected between 1804 and 1806. You can judge its beauty from the photos.

"Home Shuttle Service" drove me to Somis--can't believe we didn't stop to have one of their superb breakfast burritos at the Somis Cafe! From there I walked 16 miles to Simi Valley. What a surprise there to meet Carolyn Phillips from the Strathearn Historical Park and Museum--they had caught wind of the Ventura County Star article about me that was published in today's paper. Thanks so much for the cold bottle of water! The photo marks their location directly on my route. BTW, this is the link to the news article: http://www.vcstar.com/news/2012/oct/31/ventura-resident-journeys-on-foot-to-visit-all/

Happy Halloween! My journey today, a short 13.3 miles, continued through Ventura on Telephone Rd. onto Wells and heading east on highway 118. Most of the walk bordered on our vibrant agricultural fields (strawberries, blackberries enshrouded by plastic, lemon orchards, and a variety of vegetables). I saw the spirit of Halloween throughout my walk these last three weeks--the Petersen Ranch Fruit Stand epitomized it, as you can see.

I started today's trek with a visit into the mission, which was closed last evening. I was looking forward to meeting with Father Tom Elewaut after his mass, but we failed to hook up. The garden provided some special moments and views for pictures, after which I saw the morning buzz in downtown Ventura. I would have been remiss not turning up California Street and paying my respects to the large statue of Fray Serra in front of our City Hall, and having a photo taken. The short 7.5 mile walk took me to the east end of Main St. and then out on Telephone with a slight detour to our house.

The 18-mile walk started after "home shuttle service" dropped me off at Carpinteria, of course after devouring a huge breakfast and packing lots of lunch food. After leaving Carpinteria, I found myself walking on the shoulder of 101--noisy but adequately shouldered. Once on the old Pacific Coast Highway (PCH), the walk became a pleasant walk along the beach front. Strange to be walking along a "tsunami hazard zone"--bet Juan Bautista de Anza had no idea of that hazard! The photographer from the Ventura County Star met me about a mile out from the mission and started shooting away. To my surprise nearly thirty hometown friends made an appearance at the mission at about 4:30pm to congratulate me on this 16th milestone (with only 5 more missions to go). It truly warmed my heart to see the support. Hanna, reporter from the Ventura County Star Newspaper interviewed me and then a group of ten of us finished the event at Yolies with some good Mexican food and drink--a real fun occasion. Particularly noteworthy about the mission is that it was the ninth and last to be founded by Father Serra (March 31, 1782). Like so many other missions, earthquakes, fires, and other disasters have necessitated numerous reconstructions of the church itself. It matters little how close or far what we see today corresponds to what existed early on--it's a joy to feel the history! Here are a few photos along the way:

When I came down from the San Marcos Pass, Lucille (our family friend) picked me up and coddled me for the evening (hot shower, great home-cooked meal and a comfy bed) and gave me a send-off with a hot breakfast, sandwiches, and snacks for later. A short, six-mile walk later had me meeting Father Charles at the Mission Santa Barbara. He was about to start mass, but took time out to give me a special blessing and wished me well in my adventure to see the remaining 6 missions! Honestly, it was the warmest welcome thus far. Santa Barbara Mission was founded Dec 4th, 1786 (10th in order). The mission's nickname is "Queen of the Missions" because of its beautiful exterior--the only one with two towers. I've attached two photos. The rest of the journey (another 13 miles, making a total of 19 miles), headed through the city of Santa Barbara down to the beach then along frontage roads to Carpinteria. "Home shuttle service" picked me up for a special night at home and will take me back to Carpinteria tomorrow a.m.

Spent a night getting reacquainted with my tent at Lake Cashuma Campgrounds. The area is quite pretty and the camp store served me well the night before in helping me quench my thirst.

The first five hours were a steady climb up the San Marcos Pass along route 154 (2700-foot climb in all). I might add with an extremely skimpy shoulder one needs great vigilance. Once at the top, I walked along 154 some more, but then turned onto the old San Marcos Road, which has its history linked to the stage coach route. Check out these pictures first of lake Cachuma and then the view of Santa Rosa channel island as I walked on the old San Marcos Road.

Really short day so far up to Mission Santa Ines (Saint Agnes), and a warm welcome by the volunteer staff and one of the Franciscan priests. An early post in case I find myself without service at the Cachuma Rec Area tonight.

The church had an audio tour one could activate by pushing buttons within the church--well done. In stark contrast to Mission la Purisima, Mission Santa Ines is warm and befitting a venue still used for mass. BTW, a marker in the garden tells of this location as the first place of higher education within California. Here are several pics:

The early parts of my 19.5-mile walk had me looking directly into the bright sun--I was walking to east climbing out of the Lompoc Valley into the Santa Ynez Valley. I was observing an amazingly interesting phenomenon: nearly all mountain ranges on the North American Continent run north-south--not this one! Of course, it wasn't always that way. Some 12 million years ago it was orderly, then rotated 110 deg clockwise and thus we end up with a beautiful traverse range some 70 miles long that stretches from where Point Concepcion meets the Pacific all the way to Ojai! What's more it's a single-crested range with "phenomenal" character. It also screws most of us up who live in its shadows, because when we look out into the ocean, we're looking south (not west).

Besides seeing an increasing number of vineyards, I noted a few sites unique to this part of the country: Chumash Indian Casino buses making their runs to Lompoc (the Casino is just east of Solvang); black/raspberries enshrouded in plastic to avoid the birds' damage; and at least three bicycle groups with guide motorcycles and support vehicles. It was a fun day, as all of them have been!