Camino Sanabres 2019

Last day of my extraordinary Camino trip. While making my rounds in town, I “randomly” ran into the two pilgrims again with whom I celebrated in the few previous days—Ewald and Thomas, both German. Here are a few last memories before leaving in the morning: First, the venue for the Pilgrims’ Mass and boy was it overcrowded at the Church of San Francisco; then Thomas and my lunch together showing my pulpo (octopus)—this time fried!

While here these last few days, Santiago was celebrating Ascension Day with lots of activities including a huge venue for rides, eateries and game galleries just a block up the hill from where I’m staying.

Took the bus to Muxía today, a small fishing village a bit north of Fisterra. Many pilgrims elect to walk to one of these towns after arriving in Santiago. Only two buses go to Muxía, one in the morning (8:45) and one in the evening; similarly only two back, one very early and the other at 2:30PM, which limits the visit to about 3 1/2 hrs, although that is plenty to walk about the town and see the main attractions.

These pics captured the memories: Monument to the Prestige oil spill disaster that happened just off the coast in 2002. Natives of Calatayud (known in Spanish as bilbilitanos) also came here. In the Middle Ages they brought ropes for boats in Muxía and took dried conger eel back with them as payment in kind, transforming it into a delicacy for the palate that is still eaten today. Our Lady of A Barca (Nosa Señora da Barca) shrine. Had just enough time for a yummy lunch of sardines.

The joy of completing a Camino! My 45th day on the road, first walking through Croatia and the last 22 days going from Salamanca, Spain to Santiago via the Camino Sanabres. Festivities of the Ascension were under way as I entered the Cathedral’s east side—it doesn’t get any more special than that with dancing and music. Then 30 min in line for the Compostela, pictures in front of the Cathedral’s west side, and a few beers to celebrate—life is good to be blessed this way.

Here’s my video, and photo in front of the Cathedral, and the last pic is the view from my albergue window—wow!

A brisk walk of 20.0 km (12.5 mi) brought me to Ponte Ulla just before lunch. Getting so close to Santiago (1 day to go) brings new faces onto the scene by those walking slowly as well as a few old faces I haven’t seen in weeks. There’s also strategizing going on. Some want to go further to avoid a 1,000 ft climb immediately in the morning or want to get to the Pilgrims’ Office early afternoon, whereas others like me want to do the climb fresh and while it’s in the 50’s F.

A few interesting observations (pics) along the way are worth a mention. The first is this eucalyptus grove—a very hot topic because of its effects on the environment and employment. In Spain, where environmentalists complain that eucalyptus is crowding out indigenous forests of native oak and beech in Galicia and La Coruna, ecologists say that traditional rural lifestyles, while not as profitable, provide more employment. By one study, an Iberian olive grove requires 199 worker-days per hectare (2.47 acres) to maintain each year, vineyards 128 worker-days and a eucalyptus plantation four worker-days—that’s amazing! They use it mainly for paper pulping.

Two other things struck me. First, the growth on this tree and secondly, we discovered that the couple from Texas that has walked with us for a while shared a fact about the husband (sitting on the right) that he’s a Mount Everest climber (2002). The NY Times article in the past few days on the terrible situation near the top brought out his accomplishment!

Lastly, the albergue I’m staying in tonight is the best: all private rooms—I thought I died and went to heaven!

After walking 27.3 km (17.0 mi) today including climbs of a few thousand feet, I find myself two days out and only 24 miles from Santiago. That exciting feeling of completion is beginning to set in, especially tomorrow at the end of the day after I have a bed secured. From then on, I have all my reservations! Here in Silleda, I opted for a hostal rather than the albergue because I wanted a good night’s sleep without interruption and guaranteed breakfast in the morning—that’s worth 14 € extra!

Today’s walk started in heavy fog that didn’t lift for several hours—it added to the mystical experience. The albergue had a coffee machine which I used for starters this morning—no other coffee until about three hours later, but I made up for it by having a Spanish tortilla. It’s the first whole one that I’ve ordered. I was fascinated with the medieval bridge built on top of Roman footings. Here are some memorable pictures: first, leaving the albergue in the fog; second, beautiful roses along the way; third, walking through the forest; then my tortilla; fifth, the Roman-based bridge, and finally, the stepping-some lined trail upwards after the bridge.

Had an easy 14.4 km (9 mi) day except for the 1500 ft climb, but even that went fairly well. This brought me to within 3 days of Santiago, and you can hear people’s plans already for going home. The albergue here in the tiny town of 290 inhabitants of Castro Dozón amazes me. It’s a municipal one and modern and besides they have a lady come in at 1:00PM to make hamburgers and cook a menu del dia—she stays until 8:00PM. She does that because there’s no restaurant in town, even though there is one bar.

Above are a few memorable pics from today: first is a typical foot bridge overpass above a stream flowing below; the second is a typical marker on the Camino with a painted arrow—all the km indicators have been ripped off as mementos by pilgrims; the third and fourth capture our group of 10 having lunch at about 1:30pm; and last is a glimpse of one of the rooms with bunks.

My hike of 23.6 km (14.8 mi) started over what was the first bridge over the river Minho. This Roman bridge is one of the historical landmarks of the city, linked to its origins. When it was built it was a strategic passage, the only point in many kilometres to cross the Minho. Rebuilt in the 13th century (hence its pointed arches, striking for their height) and consolidated in the 17th century, it was declared a Historic Monument in 1961, along with the nearby Chapel of Our Lady of Los Remedios. You must cross it while walking the Mozarabic Way – Via de la Platato Santiago de Compostela.

Here are a few memorable pics of the day: first a medieval bridge hidden behind the brush; second the Roman bridge over the river Minho; third Plaza Major at our destination town with our albergue group gathering at the local plaza major and being deluged with a group of Spanish tourists—we didn’t realize our town was so “important”; and fourth, the medieval bridge I was crossing.

Although not at full energy, I walked 22.2 km (13.9 mi) mostly going gently downhill. Another perfect day for walking: cool and partly cloudy. With 109 km to go, it’s the Sanabres counterpart to Sarria for the Camino Frances, the closest point where one can still earn a Compostela for walking 100 km. It’s a real milestone to get here—only five days to go until I arrive in Santiago.

Since local and regional elections are this Sunday, there are placards everywhere and lots of activities (cars with loudspeakers and candidates walking through the streets of Ourense). And beside these, there are also the EU Parliamentary elections over a four day period that ends this Sunday night when results will be televised.

There are two main attractions here in the “big” city of Ourense (about 110,000 pop): the Romanesque Cathedral and the geothermal baths going back to Roman times. The former I visited but had to pass on the latter (not enough energy and no swimming suit).

Here are a few memorable pics from today: the first is the interior of the Cathedral and the second the exterior; the third pic is of the altar, such detailed scenes from Christ’s life; then one of the candidates walking through Plaza Major in front of city hall.

This picture is of one of the side chapels showing such extreme opulence—it blew me away.

Today was an exceptionally easy day more than making up for yesterday. But sadly we lost one of the Danish fellows to an injured ankle that swelled up during the night—he had a taxi take him to a hospital in Ourense. I covered 14.2 km (8.9 mi) with little climbing and the landscape was fabulously covered with broom flowers—apparently the name comes from folks drying the stems and using them as brooms.

Here are a few memorable pics of today’s scenery: the first is one of the Galician granaries called hórreos—I just love them; this encounter was guaranteed to get me a little muddy; here’s the broom flower that dotted the landscape; proof I was there; and finally the paths in between two granite slate fences—my favorite routing, but there are only limited sections of this kind.

It was a long and exhausting day coming about because others and I arrived at the first planned destination (15.3 km—9.6 mi) much too early (about 10:30 AM); so after a coffee break at Laza, we went on to the next option (another 12.2 km—7.6 mi) but discovered their one and only lodging (an albergue) was shut down because they weren’t handicapped compliant. At this point we had already climbed a total of more than 2000 ft and felt exhausted. Fleming a Dane and I made a pact that if beds weren’t available at the next place (Vilar de Barrio 7.7 km—4.8 mi), we were going to split a taxi and go directly to the next big city Ourense and enjoy the geothermal baths. So by now it’s nearly 5:00 PM when I arrived and luckily lots of bunks are open, only about half full. Bottom line, I walked 22 miles (35 km) and climbed over 2000 ft and of course came down that amount over gravelly, stony trails.

Here are some memorable photos: first, one of a number of building sites for Spain’s high-speed train; then a photo of forestry operations since the trail led through timberlands; next a shot of the forest landscape; this photo has a few of us getting some energy at about 2:30 PM before tackling the last unplanned five miles; and last, a touching self-service snack stand for pilgrims with a donation jar (that came just at the right time)—I was enjoying a snack with Thomas, the Buddhist monk—we’ve been chumming around somewhat, but his pace is incredible.

No cell service. I’ll make it short. Great day: 21 km (13.1 mi) and some climb. Left a little before 7:00 and arrived a bit before noon to get the last lower bunk—lucky me! Great camaraderie with Australians and a fellow from Denmark. Coffee on the road and in front of albergue.

So many landscapes today as I crossed into the state of Galicia where Santiago is located. I covered 14.8 mi (23.7 km) and climbed two hills, the first of which was the challenge. (At the top of it, I crossed into Galicia.) It wasn’t so much the elevation gain of some 1200 ft, but rather the mud I was trying to avoid. After a while it was slowing me down so much that I gave up and just sloshed through it. I’m including two map profiles, one from today and one from the entire Spanish Camino that shows I’m at the 60% mark of my of my planned route and 11 days to go until I arrive in Santiago (you can see I’m skirting Portugal!):

Here are some memorable shots of the day: first, mud everywhere, second, an attempt in places to create a protected walkway; next, entering Galicia; big stones to walk over water underneath; lastly I was huffing and puffing from climbing up when I came to this beautiful cross.

Had a super walk this morning covering only 17.4 km (10.8 mi), but having to climb about 1,700 ft. My reward was to find the albergue that was FULL the night before and caused me to change plans was empty except for Thomas. Of course, I expected that because he and I left at 6:40 AM when it was ice cold again, in the low thirties! But today I had three layers on—only my hands complained.

After the summit, I ran into a bar/store combo for a well deserved mid-morning snack. Then came a detour that I followed blindly. It was neither my preloaded track, nor did it show up on my map. This was a first—I followed it with blind faith.

Here are some pics for the day: nearly at the top, I found a marker with boots on it—hmmm; then a glimpse of the trail up; the bar about a mile past the summit—a welcome break; this bottle fascinated me at the bar; and finally, a makeshift bridge to cross a small stream.

I left the albergue in Puebla de Sanabria at 6:40 AM in bitter cold and wind: 38 deg F and with the windchill at freezing (I just wasn’t dressed for it). I could have used the gloves. After walking 12 km (7 mi) and meeting my German friend, Thomas, it became clear that the 12 beds at my planned destination of Lubian would already be gone, so I decided to stay here with him. We nicknamed our short stage: Urlaubsetappe (vacation stage). It’s crazy—Lubian doesn’t even have a store and only an albergue with 12 beds, whereas Requejo has two albergues (we‘re splurging and staying at the private one—the first albergue ever that had two sheets for every bed (fitted lower one and an upper one) and a coffee machine!! And Requejo has two hotels.

Here are some memorable pictures: the first shows the planned route of 29 km and the blue dot, my actual stay; my friend Thomas dressed in his north Vietnamese monk’s attire (from his days of studying meditation with a Vietnamese monk); third, having fun with Perry the Peregrino; then our hall of beds (18 beds, but only 4 occupied); and lastly Thomas and I having lunch with food we bought at the local store.

I managed to get an early start again before 7:00 AM, but it was fairly chilly in the 40s and didn’t warm up very much. The path of 10.8 mi (17.3 km) was nice and easy to negotiate—not very rocky and not many muddy obstacles. The destination was Puebla de Sanabria and here’s its location in Spain:

The municipal albergue is super clean and with 30 beds has ample space for the wave of peregrinos (including me) passing through—a situation I hope will continue the rest of the way. Everyone I missed from yesterday seemed to meet here today. The town is definitely a tourist attraction with its castle dating back to the 12th century. It’s such an attraction that it has a cake similar to tarta de Santiago, but it’s known as Tarta de Sanabria and has its castle in the middle (instead of the cross of St James)—and I had a piece which was delicious.

Here are a few impressions of the day: trees along the path or stone walls; then the view of the castle from the bridge over the River Tera; the small street approaching the church next to the castle and finally the Tarta de Sanabria.

This is just one of the reasons I love the Camino so much: space and time contract to where your most urgent problems are today’s, like finding lodging and knowing that the town you set as a goal (at 15.5 miles) only has one albergue with six beds! You hear there’s a Casa Rural (a step up) less than 2 miles before but figure others ahead of you will already take their only available six beds. So you start preparing yourself mentally for a 25-mile walk to the next biggest town you know has plenty of lodging. However it turns out, you’ll be elated beyond words that you’ve solved the most important problem of the day—nothing even comes close at home!

How did it turn out? I was able to get one of their last two remaining rooms at the Casa Rural. The Camino gives and the Camino takes—today I’m ever so grateful that it gave. Some pics from today’s route and the last from my balcony:

Spectacular scenery today over a stretch of 27.3 km. (17.1 mi) but essentially no store and only one bar/albergue open at 5.5 km near the end. Although I had a 6:50 AM start, I felt exhausted by my 2:00 PM at arrival. Much of the walk was along either the Rio Tera or a canal that was an aqueduct from it and then fed small irrigation canals.

These are some of my memorable pictures from today: first, standing in front of the Rio Tera that was dammed up at this point and almost felt like a lake; the river downstream from the dam; five of us who happened to arrive at that bar/albergue; the canal I walked next to go miles.

And after arriving, everyone flocked to this gourmet restaurant that featured a dynamite three course menu (no choices) for 10€  that included pate, a local cabbage soup, pork cutlet, desert, water, wine, and digestive.

Before looking at today, I have to comment on yesterday’s albergue—absolutely fantastic in terms of hospitality—the hospitalero (Jose Mari Tekane) made you feel so comfortable. He had prepared a 3-course meal that included egg drop soup, paella, and desert plus wine and three different home-made fruit liqueurs. And, Jose’s passion is writing poetry. We only had room for 12 at that municipal albergue, so the others had to sleep at other places. Here the choices of other places are more limited; one decided to give up his spot here and sleep outside on the ground. I elected to take their only spare mattress and put it on the floor finding that it’s quite comfortable.

So, today was a great walking day: 20.9 km (13.1 mi) over rolling sparsely forested hills. A 77-year old Italian was picking herbs along the way (see next to last pic)—never did get the name of it; here are some memorable photos: the first two from last night’s communal dinner; third was of me leaving by 7:30 am to get a bed here; then there’s one of the German, Thomas, who’s been on the Camino for about 20 years straight—could write a book about him—he’s as close to being a monk as you can get w/0 taking the vows—he’s studied meditation with north Vietnamese monks and teaches it on invitation. . . Then there are my feet looking around while on a mattress on the floor.

I had a very challenging day not so much the distance of 16.5 miles (26.4 km) but there was a 1+ km section (0.65 mi) that was a narrow rocky path along cliffs with a steep drop off to the river that slowed me to a crawl. My balance is just shot. And I noticed several others actually skipped this section—smart!

The scenery changed dramatically over the past week which was mainly agriculture to going through forests interspersed with fields of grain. Just before that challenging section I had a spectacular view of the bridge over the River Else.

Here are a few memorable photos: first, we’re reminded that last night’s town was the bifurcation point of the two Caminos, one going via Orense (mine) and the other going via (Astorga); next the Else River and the bridge; and finally that challenging path. I wish I knew the name of those white blooming flowery bushes??

First, for all mothers reading this: HAPPY MOTHERS DAY!!

Cold this morning and I kept my jacket on almost the first 2/3rds of the walk. Then it heated up. The stretch was 22.7 km (14.3 mi) and I felt it. I arrived at the bar where they issued a sheet and pillow cover, then after my beer, I walked the 100 to another building where the alberge was located. Of course all the lower bunks were already taken. BUT, you know you’re getting up in the years when three people offered to move to an upper one—muy amable!!!

It was a real treat walking through old Roman ruins of a castle. Then it became known as the ancient town of Catrotorafe, popularly known as ‘Zamora la Vieja’, are in San Cebrian de Castro, emplacement already located in the XII century. So it became a medieval defensive site which appeared on the banks of Esla River.

Here are a few memorable shots: first the saying of the day (seen at breakfast) and the route; then, everyone on the Camino must experience negotiating one’s way around sheep, and finally a shot of the old ruins of  Castrotorafe.

It’s exciting for tomorrow I make a left turn to start Camino Sanabres.