Hungary 2022

Day-14, Tue, May 10 from Rajka to Bratislava. Last day of walking was 13.4 miles (21.4 km). But I waited for today, Day 15, Wed to blog because my first place to visit in Bratislava was St. Martin Cathedral to give thanks for being able to do this Camino, and much more than that, for all the wonderful “figurative cloaks” and gifts in my life. With his birthplace in Pannonhalma, it almost makes to call this a St. Martin pilgrimage.

It’s a beautiful cathedral that dates back to 1452 and in 1563 became the coronation church for the kingdom of Hungary, including Austria’s famous Maria Theresa. Very close to the cathedral is an outdoor exhibit and monument bringing to light that in 1969, the Government demolished a synagogue because it was in the way of a ramp being built to a new bridge over the Danube—hard to imagine except in autocratic regimes. A walk up to the castle followed and then I became immersed in a complex history that involves the Celts, Romans, Slavs, and everything else that passed through here. My head is spinning with it all—but it’s all good.

On the way in to St. Martin’s Cathedral, I passed a huge outdoor military equipment exhibition: tanks, trucks, Apache helicopter, etc. Interesting! Then I passed a permanent facility with Lockheed Martin signage—my last employer! It was open to the public and, on the return trip, I went in free with my Lockheed Martin ID.

Then to my surprise: the ship, Amadeus, that we took 22 years ago for our Danube Cruise (where we met our now close family friend, Lucille) was anchored there waiting for their passengers to return from touring Bratislava—it only anchors for one day!

Today’s 10.2 miles (16.2 km) brings me to my last overnight stop in Hungary, a Camino guesthouse, no less, with appropriate stamp.

Tomorrow will take me to Bratislava, Slovakia, my final Camino destination. Now unlike most other lodgings, there’s almost always a restaurant close by; this evening, however, I made do with groceries for evening and morning meals, as can be seen from the picture. I also found it interesting that many cars in the residential neighborhoods now have SK (Slovakia)on their plates instead of H (Hungary). And a roadside gas station almost looked like our high-demand Costco gas stations. I’m guessing that being near the border causes folks to buy gas on the other side.

I also photographed the ubiquitous WWI and WWII memorials, this one solemnly decorated with black tulips.

Sadly only 2 more walking days left. Most of today’s 12.6 mi. were coincident with the official Camino route. So it’s no wonder that on passing a large, highly mechanized dairy farm, one of the workers ran after me to offer me something in Hungarian. Then I heard the German word, Milch. After a few minutes he came out with a 1.5 Liter (a bit more than 1.5 qts) plastic bottle of chilled whole milk. I was in disbelief. I showered him with “köszönöm” many times over (thank you) and found a nearby spot to drink nearly all of it—warm milk just didn’t sound good. So grateful how the Camino provides.

My main focus was finding and picking those dedicated bicycle paths that make the walk next to the roads so much more enjoyable—success for most of the day‘s 14.9 miles (24 km). Some interesting encounters today included the unlikely event of seeing a train cross my path, a mother Church with her two children chapels, and a Wiener Schnitzel at Jimmy‘s Pizzeria (where I‘m staying)!

I’ve been spoiled having breakfast at all my places of lodging. Well, today there was no breakfast at Domus Peregrini and, although I figured something would be open, nothing was. I had visions of running out of energy and all that goes with that. In desperation, I found a very, very small corner store that was open and they fixed me up for the day. Turns out, I didn’t have to panic—a huge German Lidl grocery store was several blocks down the road.

I stumbled onto the Apple live-text feature—statue signage and signs are magically coming alive. I grab the text off of pictures and paste it into Google Translate (set up with Hungarian to English).

A dedicated bicycle-pedestrian path conveniently led from Pannonhalma directly to Györ (county seat of same name), a distance of 13.1 miles (21 km). I took a break at a roadside coffee shop that had a fascinating outside decor with a stretch-Trabant car as a centerpiece—I didn’t want to leave it. Notice also the huge production the bike path makes as it crosses a railroad!

Passing fields and several small villages, I entered the town of Györ through sprawling outskirts and eventually arrived at a pedestrian-only zone lined with restaurants and shops. I easily found my Domus Peregrini lodging, which consists of very spacious apartments for only $40/night.

Györ just vibrates with energy, young and old, locals and clearly tourists. It didn’t take long for me to find a troupe of dancers lowered by ropes in front of a 5-story building and dancing against the building. Several thousand onlookers were standing in the plaza in front of the Györ National Theater. Check out these pics.

After 7 days of walking my pilgrimage from Budapest to Bratislava, I arrived at the town of Pannonhalma. The nexus between St Martin, born some 1700 years ago at the foot of a hill and the site chosen by Benedictine Monks to found a monastery in 996 is extraordinary. It would evolve into one of the most influential arch-abbeys of medieval Hungary. (The library’s over 400,000 works is awesome.) The nexus between Hungary and the Habsburgs appeared to me in the Basilica’s Crypt, namely the heart of former Crown Prince Otto of Austria and Hungary von Habsburg. It was buried here as recently as in July 2011. (BTW, it’s not unusual to find the heart buried at a location other than the body, which is traditionally found in the Capuchin Crypt in Vienna.)

After spending time in the Basilica, the library, and the winery (owned in large part by the Monastery and what an exceptional wine tasting experience!), I then spent hours researching Otto von Habsburg’s life—why? Because having roots in Vienna, I was interested in his views and influences—I was favorably impressed.

I finally walked a small portion of the actual Camino (well marked, as you can see). Most of my route, however, was off trail on country highways due to lodging constraints. There is an albuerge here in Pannonhalma. I’m ready to move on.

16.3 mi from Bábolna to Pannonhalma, mostly flat except at the end to climb up to the Basilica. The Abbey and Basilica became recognizable at nearly 9 miles away, literally hours before I arrived, and that made it magical. So much history to this Abbey that was founded in 996. I reserved an extra day for visiting and will share those highlights tomorrow.

I’m staying just below the Abbey and that means a climb to visit it even though I went by it on way to my guesthouse. Made up for no breakfast and lunch with venison goulash, dumplings and a few glasses of bull’s blood (Egri Bikavér).

)—it’s a real trat.

Fifth day of walking in Hungary and here I am at Bábolna, a town of fewer than 4000 in a hotel that’s part of an agribusiness concern (fertilizers, seeds, and pesticides) as well as an off-site event Center. That all sounds good but there’s nothing here after 4:00 PM. A security guard registered me at the company‘s entrance then took me to another building that has about 16 rooms—it’s like a morgue! But I’m super happy that I had a big lunch and still have carry-out from breakfast—too tired to walk another half mile to a restaurant!

I opted out of walking 19.8 miles (32 kilometers) today and decided to take the bus for the first 6 miles (10 km). Main reason is that I‘m looking at 16 miles (25 km) tomorrow, which is OK since I‘ll stay at the famous pilgrim‘s venue, Pannonhalma, for two nights.

Sights for the day: my first platoon of windmills standing at attention and presenting arms—sad that they weren’t moving—probably not enough wind (need minimum of 9 mph)!; Almost took the wrong turn to the town of Dad; nice lunch; wrong impression arriving at the Park Hotel with all the cars—5 minutes later they were totally gone.

Fourth day walking finds me in Tata after about 12 miles and an 800 ft climb—a good day that hit the low 70s. Sandwiches made at this morning’s lodging carried me through the trek—no coffee along the way, that I always appreciate. The road meandered through beautiful forests along the way until it opened up to fields and occasional horses. A few blooming rapeseed fields peaked at me through the trees.

With about an hour to go, I treasured a needed break under the shade of a beautiful tree. During the afternoon at my hotel, I reworked my route and based on a fellow SOCAL pilgrim’s advice (Mary McKinley), I decided to stay two nights at Pannonhalma, the birthplace of St Martin of Tours—a prized pilgrim destination point here in Hungary. I resonated with St Martin because the French city of Tours was celebrating his 1700th anniversary with a spectacular sound and light show against the cathedral—it had mesmerized me. BTW, I will gain an extra day tomorrow to allow an extra day in Pannonhalma!

And incidentally, our military word: chaplain, connects with St Martin who gave a beggar half of his cloak, capella (capellini). Chaplaincy is defined by the same compassionate impulse as the incident of Martin with the beggar!

First of May, a national holiday practically everywhere in Europe, for sure in Hungary. That means no restaurants open for dinner, but with her foresight, the lady who met me at the 3-unit apartment in Tarjan had cold cuts and veggie toppings waiting for me (that was my option). Luckily a convenience store within the block sold canned beer. Ending a day’s walk, of any length and especially a 14 miler, without a beer is a bummer!

A few notable sights along the way: yellow rapeseed oil fields were already in full bloom (source of Canola vegetable oil, which BTW will soon be in short supply worldwide); crude 7-ft high fences along the road intend to keep deer from crossing; undulating hills made for interesting up and downs, including a 12% downhill that I had to climb again on the other side of the valley but not as steep.

What a cushy second day compared w/yesterday’s 18 miles: only walked 8 today to the town of Zsámbék—feeling guilty—I should do more! And for this I get rewarded by staying at a mini-spa with indoor pool and jacuzzi. This is pilgrim counter-culture.

Always looking for “funnies,” I found one—hilarious (and probably unplanned, totally asynchronous): there was a turn-off from my road into a driver’s camp, presumably a huge complex where you get to do your own thing behind the wheel, which can be deadly). Across this access road was a field statue of St. Christofer (patron Saint protecting against sudden death)—hmm.

Dinner at my hotel was a treat: although I opted for their scrumptious buffet, I had it with a glass of the historically famous bull‘s blood (Egri Bikavér) a Blend of blue frank, cabernet and merlot that the Turks used to ascribe the Hungarian‘s great strength in beating them at the 1552 siege of Eger. And I went overboard with the popular Hungarian poppy seed bread pudding (Mákos guba) with vanilla custard—had to have two of them!

First day of my Hungarian Camino at a bit over 18 miles and 1300+ feet of climb (minus 167 feet by funiculars the start) crazy tiring, totally unplanned, the route and everything. Original hotel filled up, had to select one off-route. Chain Bridge over the Danube was closed due to repair that caused a 3-mile detour, and repairs up at the Buda Castle closed paths that added another mile. It seemed to take forever on the long not-too-steep incline leaving Budapest. Good thing is that I made it, although a bit wobbly at the end.

Had a lunch made from a rich assortment of breakfast cheeses/ meats. A brief beer stop to go with my sandwich saved me time. After a shower and two-hour nap, I was good to go eat at the restaurant downstairs. I‘m staying at a freeway hotel/restaurant with nothing else around except a gas station—it was the only thing available. I hit it off with an owner who spoke perfect German and did the del Norte Camino at age 18–the people you meet add so much to the experience.

Had to include a picture of the giant Ferris Wheel a few blocks from my trendy little hotel—its lights and all the people were a perfect “good night” to me after another goulash dinner with Spätzle.

I couldn’t possibly go into any detail for today’s 8 hrs of sightseeing as I followed “Visit a City” for Budapest’s one-day option. I walked along the Danube’s east bank past the old Chain Bridge up to the gothic-revival Parliament bldg where I toured its historical exhibit.

From here I headed to St. Stephen’s Basilica (named after Hungary’s first King), then to the National Opera House, the Central Market (with Juliana greeting me and finally finding a piece of Dobos Torte) and ended with a lengthy stay at the National Museum.

Tomorrow I leave Budapest to start my walk.

Day 2 brought me to Budapest via London and although I received a rainy welcome, I was grateful to begin my journey without a glitch. In fact, it was nearly like old times. Both legs were with completely full aircraft. No one even asked for my proof of vaccination which I thought strange. Furthermore, mandatory masks went out the window; a few folks wore them. I photographed a mural at the airport right after going through passport control, but I couldn’t right-size it to save my soul—sorry! After getting settled in at the D8 hotel in the city center, I went back to the Red Pepper Eterem (Restaurant) that I passed earlier on the way to the hotel—Hungarian Goulash and a good beer from Prague hit the mark. I was too tired to enjoy a glass of Bikaver wine (bull’s blood)—maybe tomorrow.

Here’s a map of the Camino trail I’ll be following on Friday, my first day of walking.

This Sunday, Geoff and I did a 7.2 mile pre-hike to Inspiration Point in the Angeles National Forest with a bit over 1000ft elevation gain—a good training hike for me before leaving for Budapest. We devoured a picnic lunch as we looked on to the snow-covered mountains in the distance.

The plane for Budapest leaves in 6 days. Am getting more ready each day. Yesterday I hiked up the Ventura Coast from the Pier to the entrance of Emma Wood State Beach then back heading up to our Cross. The view is breathtaking, as always, then I finished my hike going through Ventura’s beautiful Botanical Garden whose South African Section is in full bloom.

It‘s 20 days until the start of my Hungarian Camino from Budapest up to Bratislava. I‘m training for this 13-day walk in Hungary. This post is a training exercise of its own.