Innsbruck to Rome 2018

This blog covers both Friday, the 25th (San Sepolcro to Citerna) and Saturday, the 26th (Citerna to Citta di Costello)

Friday was an easier day (13 km—8 mi and climbed 918 ft). Today, Saturday, seemed very hard (20 km—12 mi and climbed 2680 ft). The temp has been hitting mid-80s and it’s made a difference. Conditions otherwise have been astounding: no rain, very little mud, good walking paths, and some shade here and there.

Because of the heat and the hills, I’ve had to slow down my pace, and so I’m walking 8 to 9 hrs—but it’s all still fun. Especially when trail angels appear. After the first of three hills this morning there suddenly appears in the middle of nowhere a very rustic hotel. I walked in and asked if they were open, and the owner just served me another breakfast—first one was really skimpy anyway. She couldn’t put enough food in front of me—and only charging me 5 Euros. It’s kindness like that that keeps you going. Then I met the only couple that stayed there (Dutch)—we had fun leapfrogging each other.

Also learned that most residences in remote areas are only occupied March to November—too much snow, and these gravelly roads aren’t cleared.

Today I covered 25 km (15.6 mi) and climbed some 1650 ft. It was a marvelous hiking day: no mud, no rain, not too many rocky paths, and no slippery places. I struggled with the last third energy-wise, maybe because it reached the high 70s and I was a bit tight on water—I expected some water sources on the last third that never materialized. Finally just outside of my destination town I found a bar/cafe and guzzled a liter of Powerade.

Much of the route along the middle of the way hugged the rolling hills of Tuscany—I felt the rare essence of solitude and serenity. The landscape consumed me, as I did it—we bonded—no one else around. No houses close by, no arable land, no vineyards, just spotty forests and wild grasses. This is the priceless quintessence of a pilgrimage that one never forgets. And I may never experience that euphoria again on this Camino—that’s OK—today was worth it. That was “the hole-in-one” that keeps the golfer coming back.

By the way, this city, Sansepolcro, has a fantastic 1000-year history and a crazy reason why it was spared damage in WW II. That’s for another place and time.

Last evening, a well-intentioned deed turned disastrous. While trying to confine my muddy clothes to the bathroom, specifically the shower, I needed to sit to remove my socks. Of course, on top of the toilet cover—well, it cracked into dozens of pieces and left me wondering how I could explain this in Italian! This morning came the time of reckoning—and luckily, the owner spoke German and settled for 20 Euros. To all you pilgrims out there who might be staying in a hotel, let this be a lesson!

So with a clean conscience, I started the route of 16 km (10 mi) and 1600 ft of climb. And with only a light drizzle it made for a reasonable day—although rocky trails, mud, and slippery paths were about the same as yesterday. 

The special treat at my destination is Michelangelo’s birth house and the museum that surrounds it. Known as Caprese’s Castle, it’s situated atop a hill with 360 deg view of the valleys (one pic shows a sample view). They have a respectable collection of copies and casts of his sculptures—you’ll recognize the one I chose.

At 18 km (11 mi) and 3900 feet of climbing, it would have been challenging enough, but the rain for at least half the day, and getting caught in a rainstorm with no shelter in sight made it even more memorable. The more it rained, the more slippery the steep slopes got. A number of sections I found myself having to sidestep up to make sure I didn’t fall backwards. It was an exciting and long day—8 hrs walking and sliding, not counting a one-hour lunch break to re-energize.

A comical moment happened when my trail crossed a paved road, went downhill some 30 yards and abruptly ended at a 15-ft wide, fast-moving stream. There was no way I could cross this—you can imagine my thoughts. I went back up to the road and took it for a few miles, then crossed that stream over a bridge and continued climbing. The road was actually marked as the trail! One picture shows the wild stream in a waterfall.

By the way, I may be eligible for triple credit—a large part of today’s route followed all three routes: the Via Francigena, Via Assisi, and Via Romea!

Did 17.5 km (11 mi) and climbed 2140 ft—with drizzle, but I just called it quits a little early and called my lodging in Badia Prataglia to ask if they can pick me up. Would have to have climbed another 1200 ft and hiked only 8.5 km (5 mi) but just didn’t have the energy. Took a break at hotel/Cafe del Parco (owned by Famiglia Baroldi—wonder if any relation to Anita) and will have to wait two hours until they can pick me up—oh well.

It was a great day, walking much of it in forest with only one stream that was a big challenge that I managed and very little mud. Also, I have to give credit to the folks who paint the red/white way markers—I must encounter over 100 of them each day, and they‘re an inspiration in themselves. Someone actually came to these remote spots and painted these stripes to let you know you’re on track and wish you well until the next marker. They’re the official Via Francigena markers, which actually is a bit of a different route than the Via Assisi that goes only from Florence to Assisi.

At only 16 km (10 mi) and a 1760 ft climb (half of yesterday’s) you’d think this would have been a cake walk. Well it was the stream crossings and mud that showed me who’s boss: the final score today was Kurt five and streams two and mud came in the winner. I didn’t fall into either of them, but I slipped on some rocks and ended up stepping into the water and there were a half dozen places where I just couldn’t walk around the mud, so I had to bite the bullet. I took my shoes and socks into the shower with me. Shoes are drying in the bidet—clever, huh!

Twice I said to myself, “You’ve got to be kidding.” I missed my turn by about 100 yards, which ended up turning off a six-foot wide muddy path onto a steep uphill one-foot wide path that the deer would use. Then about a mile up this path, a bunch of trees were cut right across the path, blocking your way. Luckily I found a bypass.

It was fun at the end of the day to find my German buddy sitting at a bar/cafe. We had to compare stream and mud stories!

Toughest day, yet, covering 19 km.(12 mi.) and climbing the entire way for 3349 ft.—only one day will have a harder climb. The climb at times was gentle, but many times quite steep. At about a third of the way, I met another pilgrim in his late 40s from northern Germany and we had a great time walking together. He‘s also headed to Rome—his first pilgrimage. He told me that I was his motivation to keep up the pace—obviously made me feel good.

The trail led mostly over narrow, paved country roads, but it also had its share of backwoods rocky and muddy paths over which streams were trickling to find their way down the hill. The latter measurably slowed me down, but the poles helped me keep my balance. The pictures show some of  the more difficult sections as well as some of the countryside.

The arrangement for lodging tonight seemed a bit out of the ordinary. After arriving at my destination village, I was to call the designated B&B. Well, first of all, my phone is nonop—I never bought a simcard! That’s where my hiking buddy helped out. Indeed, someone came and picked me up, but then drove over 20 min for about 13 km (8 mi)—way out in the boondocks, but what a luxurious, roomy place. I was blown away—my only complaint is that it’s terribly cold (and was shivering)! Some of that is due to my metabolism having drastically changed and pushing hard today. On Caminos, I usually start shivering at night on about day 4 or 5 (as I recall). It’s now bedtime and I’ve rehydrated, had electrolyte capsules, and a good hearty dinner, but unfortunately had to pass on wine.

My 21st day on the “Camino.” Completed my Stage I to Padua and just had a beautiful first hiking day on the Assisi Way (Camino Francigena) covering 14 miles (22 km) with 2000 ft of climbing. The trail surfaces varied from normal sidewalks to leave Florence (that took over an hour) to paved farm roads to rocky and dirt surfaces (not many of these).

The scenery was rich in olive orchards and Tuscany grapevines.

Couldn’t resist a ciabatta with prosciutto at the snack bar set up at a local street market—especially since it was just before the second thousand-foot climb. That’s to Italy as the hamburger is to the USA. Compare this stand to where I had lunch yesterday in Florence at the Mercato di San Lorenzo with crowds of people.

Pictures: 1. Lunch yesterday at the crowded Mercato di San Lorenzo
2. 3. 4. 7. The path through the countryside.
5. 6. A snack bar stand in small town with street market; ciabatta with prosciutto
8. Grapevines
9. Looking at Florence in the distance over olive orchards

Traveled by train a little over two hfrom Padua to Florence to start Stage II of my Walk. I trained well for the walk, but not to deal with the throngs of people—I wasn’t ready for this, not after 18 days of relative solitude. Wow. My first quest was to get the starting stamps for my pilgrim’s credentials: first from Santa Croce and then from The Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Flower.

Santa Croce is the world’s largest Franciscan Church with tombs of some of Italy’s greatest: Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, and monuments without the tombs for Dante, da Vinci, Fermi, etc. Too much to get your arms around, but I did get my stamp.

The Cathedral, some 800 meters away, was a problem getting in. It was already closed, and the last few people were being ushered out. I pleaded with one of the security guards and he let me in and another got my credentials stamped—sweet. Mission Accomplished—then I played tourist for another three hours: seeing the statues in and around the Loggia dei Lanzi (including a copy of  David); walking along the Arno, then over the Ponte Vecchio; and having some genuine gelato!

Had a wonderful rest day in Padova—any day without the backpack is a rest day. I did a six-hour tour following the model of VisitAcity’s one-day tour for Padova. Yes, it can be done, but it’s tiresome. Amazing stuff here.

Scrovegni’s Chapel is undoubtedly #1 attraction—it’s a kind of a Sistine Chapel done in 1305, whereas the Sistine Chapel frescos were done in late 1480s and Michelangelo’s Last Judgement was done in 1530s. Giotto, the painter, is praised for being an inspiration to the later Renaissance Artists and particularly for infusing emotions into their subjects as well as for using perspective.

Not far from Scrovegni’s Chapel is the Eremitani Church, erected between 1260 and 1306 for the Hermits friars. In the 14th Century it became one of the most important churches of Padua and was decorated by the greatest masters then active in town. Its main features are the splendid vaulted wooden ceiling and its aisleless interior.

Third most noteworthy was the Padova Cathedral that just happened to be cycling through a number of young organ players with the master correcting them along the way. The Cathedral wasn’t anywhere nearly as impressive as the Basilica of St Anthony. The Cathedral of today is the third structure built on the same site. The first one was erected in 313 but destroyed by an earthquake on 3 January 1117. It was rebuilt in Romanesque style starting in 1551, but not finished until 1754, leaving the façade unfinished.

My last visit was to Santa Sofia Church, and to get in I had to ask a lady working in the rectory. She was so sweet opening the entire church just for me through the side door. Santa Sofia is the oldest church structure in the city. It was built in the 10th century on the site of a presumed Mythraeum. A grant was made to bishop Sinibaldo of this church in 1123, which had already been in construction. The Romanesque facade was constructed from 1106 to 1127, and is now somewhat inclined to subsidence of the soil. The interior is now relatively sparse.

Pictures: 1. Ext. of Scrovegni Chapel
2. Jesus kisses Judas
3. Last Judgment
4. Church of the Eremitani (Hermits)
5, Inside Eremitani
6. Padua Cathedral
7. Interior of Cathedral
8. Santa Sofia Church
9, Interior of Sofia
10. Prized fresco in Sofia
11. Last Supper by Giotto In Scrovegni Chapel

Sixteen miles (25 km), flat and cool weather had me arrive in Padova (Padua) with hardly a sign of being tired. I must have drawn energy from an epiphany I was experiencing. Let me explain. There were signs of events coming together today—events that seemed randomly connected before.

As I started walking, I saw signs that I was on the Camino of St Anthony—his last walk as an ailing priest from Camposampiero to Padova—my exact route along the little stream (he died at the end of that walk).

Now earlier, St Anthony (a Franciscan) came to the attention of the founder of the order, Francis of Assisi. They formed a special bond, and I somehow unknowingly overlaid their bond on my overall route by ending my first phase here in Padova and continuing on the Assisi Way in Florence. My break at first seemed like a random discontinuity, but now seems to “fit.” And finally, while searching for a hotel in Padova, first using Booking.com and seeing nothing, then switching to Hotels.com and selecting their first entry, I booked into Hotel Casa del Pellegrino (house of the pilgrim). I‘m staying here two nights—is that coincidental or what?

There’s more in the sense of when I walked our California Missions, St Anthony of Padua, our third mission just west of King City left a very strong impression on me. It’s the only mission St Serra would still recognize today—nothing has been built around it. It’s also the only mission that pushed me to the limit (I was going north to south).

A few pictures of the basilica of St Anthony (no real architectural style—over the centuries it’s added on top of the Romanesque. You can see the sarcophagus of his body in a separate transept chapel.

Nine miles of zigzagging through the countryside and for the first two hours with light rain brought me to my destination hotel here in Camposampiero. It’s the last stop before Padua, the end of Stage I, where I switch from the Via Romea to the Via  Francigena (aka, the Assisi Way) by taking a train to Florence.

Had two breaks along the way: a mid-morning break to eat the sandwich I take with me from breakfast and a lunch break (this tends to be my routine). Two things I noticed along the way. First, although the countryside was dotted with farmed land, many above-average homes appeared along the way along with lesser, but still very nice and newer homes. These might possibly be summer homes.

Then I noticed for the last week or so the practice of telling everyone the event that just transpired, such as a new baby boy or girl, a first communion (shown in the picture), or as was common last weekend—mother’s day. The fences or the front of the house would be decorated. Nice!

Today I found myself navigating some 13 miles (20.5 km) in a southeasterly direction over a flat grid of north-south country roads. That means you’re zigzagging and having to be alert for every turn. Then, to add some “realism” to this test, I  also experienced a drenching rain that lasted for but an hour.

Despite all the zigzags, I managed to follow a few small streams one of which was creatively harnessed by a waterwheel with a 15 KW output—the stream was barely 12 ft wide. I was impressed they went to the trouble of doing that.

And the things you encounter: a McDonald’s and Burger King (these are not big cities I’m going through); an Old Wild West Restaurant; a field of dense red poppies (it’s not that they’re everywhere); and the calming chimes of church bells calling the flock to mass (there’s something about them—I can’t describe). And, one forgets, but these bells go off hourly in these small villages (and sometimes even more).

The Alpini were out in full force traveling on bicycles and the train, most likely trying to reach Trento (a big venue for celebration) and many towns in between. That was the backdrop as I walked 26 km (16 mi) from Borgo Valsugana to Primolano.

Not sure yet what I’ll do for tomorrow. My two options are to take the train back, walk to here, and stay here a second night or just keep walking, assuming I can find lodging in the next scheduled place.

last pic is from Hotel al Castello where I’m staying. Have decided to walk on—have lodging for tomorrow night—yeah!

Last night I stayed at one of the best “Pilgrim” luxury spots one could imagine, but at pilgrim prices, $79. I booked one of the former Habsburg Royalty summer places ( it opened back in 1900) the Imperial Grand Hotel now still a four-star adventure with full use of pools, spa, breakfast and enough to make a lunch, too. I truly fell into this one. Thank you—thank you. In comparison, I have a picture of the hostel where I‘m staying tonight—and the bed is just as good!

Met some true Alpini along the way. Also met my first three pilgrims: a Dutch fellow and two Austrian ladies.

Getting back to Alpini, the ANA (Associazione Nazionale Alpini or National Alpini Association) is a registered society representing the "Veci" or former members of the Alpini corps. As the "Veci" see themselves as merely "on leave" rather than veterans, the ANA is colloquially known to be the 10th Alpini Regiment. Since 1920 every year ANA organizes a national reunion the "Veci". Hundreds of thousands of Alpini congregate with family and friends to an Italian city for a weekend—and this is the weekend! I have a few pictures.

Today was a quasi rest day, or even a splurge day. The walk was only about 3 miles (5 km) but it was nearly mystical with low fog/clouds hovering on the hillsides. I arrived at the Imperial Grand Hotel before 11:00 and the room wasn’t ready yet, so I dropped off my backpack and poles and went exploring.

First stop, the Parish Church where I asked about getting my pilgrim’s stamp (that made me find the parish office, with eventual success—the priest spoke German). Then I walked one end to the other—the whole town, in fact, the whole Alpine Region starts heavy-duty celebrations this weekend of the end of WW I—it’s 100 years, but the celebrations are only in their 91st year. Flags are everywhere.

Now, my decadent act was booking here, a classy spa hotel actually having been a summer getaway for the Habsburg Royalty at around 1900 when they still had claim to this region. When it opened it did so around its natural mineral spring sources (arsenic and other good minerals). I couldn’t resist taking advantage of their Wellness facilities: indoor thermal pool, jacuzzi, etc., all for $79 including breakfast!

Today was a “suck-it-up, Buttercup“ day. Coming out of the Trento basin, I found myself climbing some 2400 ft within about 3 miles. University students were passing me right and left going to their campus along my way. I guess there was a reason to build the University on the hillside. My challenge was simply to find a nice rhythm mixed with breaks so I wouldn’t burn out—and I did it. More to come, for sure. The downhill was very rugged and took me nearly as long as going up. The variety of surfaces I walked on today was astounding—I tried to capture some in pictures.

My euphoria came as I saw the destination lake, Lake Caldonazzo, but only the north beach. Even had a Dutch fellow snap a photo. Still had to go to the south side. A nice boardwalk around a fourth of the lake took me part of the way and then followed with more climbing—oh well.

23 km (14 mi) along the Adige River with an early start of 7:30 made for a perfect day. And before I got into my rhythm, I noticed the town of Mezzacorona which was also one of the Pinot Grigios we did at our last wine tasting (can’t remember if they made it into the finals—we ore-tasted several dozen Pinot Grigios). That already gave me a warm, fuzzy connection to the area. Trent with more than 100,000 people is the capital of the autonomous province by the same name, but historically has played a huge role in the 1500’s, to wit the Catholic Church’s Council of Trent.

With Luther’s posting of his 95 theses in 1517, he launched the Reformation of the Catholic Church, and as we all know, really stirred up the pot. The eventual upshot was the convocation of the Council of Trent from 1545 to 1568. Trent, at the time, belonged to the Habsburg Empire, which then implied that a favorable anti-reformation result would be coming out of a German-speaking venue! Anyhow, lots went on here at that time.  Visiting the Romanesque Cathedral against that historical backdrop made me appreciate it even more.

The pictures: 1. Inside the Cathedral where one of the three naves were undergoing renovation.
2. Dom Plaza with Cathedral in background
3. Where were these toities when I needed one just 5 minutes earlier??
4. I wasn’t alone on the Plaza.
5. This coming weekend is the 91st celebration since ending of WW I—the cities in the north rotate who hosts—this year in Trent and it’s 100 years since the war ended—BIG CELEBRATION!

Perfect day for walking 25 km (15 mi) with some climbing in the first part to the quaint town of Tramin (yes, you guessed it: the home of Gewürztraminer). Although I was tempted to try their Gewürztraminer, it was just too early and I had a long haul. On entering the town, I noted an oversized pergola to tell you that locals had used these for grapes in about 500 BC—cool find! The Romans picked up the use of wooden barrels from the locals later on.

After Tramin I descended back to the Adage River and followed it to the village of Cadino where I’m staying. Maybe 3 or 4 miles before turning off to Cadino, I left the autonomous state of Bolzano and entered the autonomous state of Trento, also the demarcation of where German stops. The receptionist here speaks only Italian with a German word thrown in here and there. So this is where my basic Italian gets tested—ha, ha.

Covered 15 miles with 800 ft climb, a few short stretches with sideway steps, but generally a nice day until the temperatures went up to 83 deg F (28 deg C). Leaving Bolzano, I saw hundreds of cyclists on the path—they were everywhere. The paths were a mix of everything and lots of forks in the forest, exactly where you don’t want to lose GPS , which I did for several miles—I nearly panicked (but there’s always plan B.

The town of Caltrer See is very small but big on tourists staying at any of the  10 or so hotels. And what do folks do who come to these small towns: they cycle or take walks.

A newcomer on the scene was the many vineyards and the baby bunches of grapes. I even took one break overlooking a vineyard. The one pic that looks like a vineyard is in fact a fruit orchard with trees planted every yard and its canopy very well managed. Another surprise was the appearance of the stations of the cross on the very path I was walking on—stations were every 75 ft or so. And, the big glass of wine at my destination hotel (Seeperle) at the Kalterer See was in keeping a promise to a Camino Friend, Gerhard Treiber; he asked me to have two glasses one for him and one for me, but I opted for the “BIG”one instead—ha, ha!