Portuguese Camino 2014

Can't believe it's over. The last 24.9 km (15.6 mi) took me to the goal, walking through beautiful countryside with a little drizzle nearly the whole time. I have Rainer to thank for getting us early to Santiago. He had a strong pace and left little time for breaks. On arrival, we almost immediately ran into several peregrinos we lost contact with earlier--a real reunion that continued for hours as others popped up.

First line of business was getting a room, then came the one-hour wait for the Compostela (certificate), followed by several beers and meeting Phillip (from Germany) who then joined us for dinner celebration. The pics speak for themselves:

Today's 18.1 km (11.3 mi) led me through some of the most beautiful scenery of the entire Camino. The forest smell and sounds of so much water trickling all around me made me stop here and there to imprint a memory.

The Albuerge is next to an 18th century Carmelite Monastery that gives it a special aura. The town of some 90,000 is revered as a special Jacobean venue. It was here that the apostle St. James landed and started his preaching. Two pictures say it all, one on top of a hill (also the front cover of my guide) where he preached and a second with the original stone where St. James's boat tied up on the River Sar, the stone illuminated under the main altar.

Only one more day!

23.1 km (14.4 mi) closer to Santiago--only two days left and feeling bittersweet about it. The walk through river valleys with many Albariño vines was a real treat. Many of us pilgrims now know each other and we wave as we leapfrog each other on the Camino. It's particularly special seeing the old Roman road designator number XIX (see pic). Who knows who all walked these roads and now I am--a small thrill.

Caldas de Reis is named after the natural hot springs. One pic had me standing in front of the one springs used for washing. Also took a pic of my favorite Galician architecture with columns holding the first floor.

A few uphill climbs and and paths through mixed forests took me 18.2 km (11.4 mi) to a great looking albuerge in Pontevedra. Four of us shared a washer and I took advantage of it and did my pants too. May not sound important to the casual reader, but it is to a tired pilgrim--it was a gift.

The town has some 83K people in it and has been described as an old Galician town. Many, many old, important looking buildings greet you in the center. I forwent a nap just to get a better impression--vale la peina (it was worth my pain).

Here are just a few impressions, one of which included the Parador (state-run 5-star hotels usually in very old settings), the Pilgrim Chapel in the shape of a shell on the Peregrina (female peregrino) Square, and City Hall:

An easy 14.9 km (9.3 mi) brought me to my first views of the ocean inlet since Porto. Lovely walk--great albuerge at the end of the day, even though a number of us had to wait a half an hour for it to open. Had my first GOOD pulpo (octopus) on the Camino and expect more as I approach Santiago and beyond. Two German ladies are pushing their friend in a wheel chair to Santiago--an amazing task! Had a beer with them and talked about their adventure--enough for their lifetimes.

So much going in here--festivities, music, artisans selling their wares. It's almost too much for the senses. Here are a few pics.

Beautiful day for getting 19.3 km (12 mi) behind me--now under 100 km left. The past heavy rains have washed out a few areas, but everyone managed to use the adjoining fields as a makeshift detour.

Discovered the cause of my bone bruise: sandals have a crack in sole (too old) that let some jagged rocks intrude. My fault. I should have replaced them.

Going through Tui, my first Spanish town, I stopped in at a small church adjacent to a convent to find four nuns at their morning prayers. At first I felt as if I were intruding, but after a few minutes more as an invited guest. Witnessing, no, immersing in a Camino context in the power of the church--the total dedication some practice--is beyond words.

I have dozens of photos from today--beautiful gripping scenes--but these four nuns by far have punctuated the day for me!

Walked about 20 km (12.5 mi) much of it in the rain and on asphalt to baby my bone bruise--it's getting better. Part of Valenca is within the medieval walls with very narrow streets and lots of touristy shops and eateries. I'm now on the Spanish border, with Tui just on the other side that marks the 100 km mark. I'll only have 5 or 6 days depending where I make the night breaks.

Here are some cute pics, one that exemplifies a pilgrim toward the end of the journey, pathetic looking, in one word. Another is the view across the River Minho.

Over half the route (16.8 km; 10.5 mi) led me during intermittent rain through natural paths that kept me off main roads. This segment marked the steepest cumulative climb of the Portuguese Camino when I reached the high pass up the Labruja Valley at 405 m (1330 ft), this from nearly sea level at the beginning of the day. A few 30- to 40-meter segments brought me to all fours as I tried to keep my fragile balance over the slippery rocks. Two cyclists from South Africa REALLY struggled carrying their bikes!

Several hours earlier, I waded through mud and at least six inches of flowing streams that flooded the path--my inner sox never got wet. Still babying a bone bruise at the bottom of my left foot caused by the jagged rocks of the past two days, I'll try to stay on asphalt roads to tomorrow's goal of Tui (Spanish border).

After last night's ascetic experience, I sprang for a Pensao with private room, shower, sheets, and pillows all for 20€. That includes breakfast and travel to a restaurant tonight--not much around here.

The few pictures can't begin to capture the day's beauty and beastly ruggedness.

Nearly all of my 14.5 km (9 mi) walk was in the rain. It was almost mystical at times. Arrived at noon only to discover that the albuerge didn't open till 4 pm. They're very austere--no blanket, sheets, or pillow. This is pure, raw pilgrim style--I'm not complaining! I'm using the WI-FI in the restaurant next door.

The pics show the difference between last night and today, as well as of the town as one enters with music piped in all around to welcome you.

Walked 19.1 km (12 mi) about half in the rain--poncho and waterproof socks worked well. About five of us gathered here (so far--it holds 10, and they'll be full tonight) at this Casa da Fernanda albuerge that seems located in the middle of nowhere with an ultra attentive hostess feeding us and caring for our needs--all on a donativo basis. Really cute.

Here are some pics of hospitality (tongue in cheek) along the way, a sample of some of the stretches, and a look at our sleeping quarters.

Extraordinary day! Found the bus that took me to Braga, the 3rd largest city in Portugal, after Lisbon and Porto. Rich in history that goes back to Roman times when it was the capital of Galicia. Its cathedral dates way back, but the archdiocese even further is touted as one of the oldest in the world. Couldn't visit any of the Roman digs because on Mondays museums are closed. Payed Rome a tribute by lunching at the Centurion Restaurant in true Roman style--buffet with 7 courses, but I only took a picture of one of the deserts! I truly ate like a centurion.

The big draw is Bom Jesus, a basilica you climb over 600 stairs to visit while passing chapels along the way that have life-size scenes of the stations of the cross. When I arrived, a tour group from just south of Vienna was celebrating mass--of course, they brought their own priest.

Walked it all: 27.3 km (17 mi) over 7.5 hours and the mid-day sun. Will explore the town after my usual rituals. I'm in my cool-down mode with a beer some 50 yards from the Albuerge, which is relatively huge: 50 to 60 bunks.

Only two pics that say it all, the first warning pilgrims about zero shoulder and cars zooming by at 50 mph, the second my view from just outside the Albuerge:

Walked 26 km (16 mi) a large part just exiting Porto, but I enjoyed it. Lots of the way was over the uneven granite cobblestones with little to no shoulder. I had to be very vigilant around the many blind curves--the bright yellow shirts would have helped.

Despite all that, the Camino felt so good today. I'm in a true groove again: early to rise, fast pace, early arrival at albuerge, shower, wash clothes, BIG beer, a little rest, talk with a Pole, a Dutchman both in English, and the owner in Spanish--wow, it's the Camino!

Just one pic of the albuerge, relatively new, extra clean, and only 10€! Will eat at the cafe 20 meters away tonight.

Had a wonderful day doing the Porto scene, first starting out with the double-decker hop-on/hop-off Yellow Bus historic route--two hours long. Lunch afterwards on the bank of the Douro River. Then some more sightseeing and topped off with two Port Winery tours and tastings: Calem and Sandeman. BTW, the Portuguese name of the city is Porto, whereas the English name is Oporto! Got confused myself seeing both!

After the first round of ports, I spent a few hours just lying on the shore of the Douro and relaxing! It doesn't get much better than that.

So many beautiful sites, but only one picture: the one of me tasting port. Can't get more to the soul of Porto!

Started with a taxi ride of 7.6 km (ca 5 mi) then walked 16.2 km (ca 10 mi) then caught a bus the last portion to Porto for about 10.5 km (ca 6.6 mi). Basically, we rode more than we walked for this stage. That upset Hugo more than I realized and when we checked into our little Pension, it resulted in Jean and I parting ways. We had too many misunderstandings that could have been avoided--we're just too different.

Hugo and I explored the old part of Porto: the Cathedral, Libertade Square with City Hall up the hill, and a rest in the same Square with a big beer while listening to great music by a small musical band. Plan to go to Cafe Guarany famous for their Fado music (mournful music about the sea or longing, and nowadays is always about a "loss"--so it might be serendipitously appropriate).

Check out these pics, including my Pension just alongside the train station:

Walked the first 20 km (12.5 mi) to arrive in Oliveira still 9.2 km (6 mi) short of our goal. We were both beat so we called a taxi. It seems those climbs of 300 or 400 feet in the noon day sun just wipe us out.

The town we're staying in with 29,000 pop. has real cute character, but can't lay my finger on describing it. It's not touristy and not a university town. Maybe because of so much poverty it's a mix. Our Residencial Hotel is well located around a plaza that has a lot of action. These photos are of our place and a little church a few minutes away--shot looking down is from our room.

Hugo had a happy day--we walked the whole stage of 16 km (10 mi), not long but a fun stage. Great breakfast at the Residencial Celeste this morning; close to lunch we crossed an old Roman bridge; and at our destination of Albergaria (the old one--there's a "nova" too) we arrived at our Pension Parente in time to do lots of laundry. To top it off, the owner whose second language was French did the most elaborate stamp (colored by hand)--just had to take a picture of it to blog; she took one too to post on Facebook. Bacalao at the pension tonight--yummy.

At lunch I watched a little of the Fatima celebration--thousands of pilgrims, the same ones that competed with us for resources. Check out the pic taken from the TV coverage. Check out the other pics, most of which Jean took:

What a day! 16 miles of walking and on top of that a start with the train to Mealhada, then some walking to Anadia, followed by a taxi ride to Aguada de Cima that a lovely lady in Anadia arranged. She spent a half an hour with us to help us find a specific restaurant with a superb reputation for suckling pig (Cochinillo in Sp. or Laitao Assado in Portuguese). We left her at the highlight of the day. We thought the restaurant was in her village, but turned out to be some 20 km further on. She arranged a taxi ride there, but we found it closed. We "cried" but walked on to Agueda, our destination for the day.

Nearly at our accommodations, Recidencial Celeste, we spotted a mom and pop restaurant that advertised Cochinillo--they also spoke French there. It all looked rosy again. We agreed to come back later, and he even showed us the pig as he put it in the oven. It made your mouth water! We checked into our place, got settled, and came back only to find that what we got served was an old leftover portion--cold at that. Then came two guys that bought the whole pig that we thought was destined for our tummies!!!!! Unbelievable, but true. We complained. No use. We left nearly all except the bottle of sparkling red and chalked it off to a lesson learned.

Here are some pics of an up-and-down day (tiled Cochinillo going into oven; closed restaurant; our Anadia angel; before and after disappointment):

Happy Mothers Day!!

As Coimbra celebrates graduation of its university senior class, students, parents, and spectators like us revel among them in a wild and crazy parade of more than 60 floats. Most make various politically charged statements. It's amazing to see. BTW, the University of Coimbra is listed as 16th oldest in Europe, dating from 1290!

Check out these pics from last night and today. The floats here are all in the staging area on the university grounds, each packed full of beer, sodas, water, etc. Talked with many students--they've all learned English. SAD NOTE is that as they graduate, there are no jobs!

Red alert--red alert! But only for a few hours until we adjusted our plan. We had all intentions of walking only 16 km (10 mi) today to Condeixa-a-Nova passing through unimaginably beautiful pastoral scenes with cool weather in the valleys and mountainsides.

In Fonte Cuberta, the town went crazy with extravagant tile Camino markers and historical tile plaques. Just a few km before our goal, we passed Roman ruins we flagged for a return later on in the pm.

At Condeixa-a-Nova, a human tsunami came through town (literally 100s of pilgrims--most on yellow shirts and of course w/o back packs that were carried by support cars). They filled ALL the sleeping facilities! PANIC--RED ALERT! They all have to arrive at Fatima on THE BIG DAY, May 13! So we had lunch to think it out and decided to take a taxi to Coimbra (our next planned stop--for 2 nights at that). Lots to see in this university town (pop. 190,000)--siesta time right now.

Check out these pics: