Via Regia 2016

Blew through the 25.5 km (16 mi) with several stops to arrive at my destination by 3:00 pm: Hotel Nagel at near pilgrim's rates. A dense bed of poppies welcomed me--can't asked for more.

Along the way, I passed through the town of Spiesheim and its vineyards that were first mentioned historically in 770. The walk was a mix between fields, farm roads, busy highway, and through vineyards--very pleasant because of the cloudiness, but NO rain.

Covered the 23 km (14.4 mi) in about 6 hrs with several rest stops, not much sun and easy paths (but I've learned to take the bike paths over those pointed out by my tracks which occasionally turn out risky). Then there's the flip side--signs can be decoys, like a "Pilgerweg " (pilgrims' way) and the Pariser Straße (the road to Paris)--yeah, right! So, my tendency is to follow the green arrows for the bikes. They're the most dependable--the one in the pic warns dog owners that baby doe deer are ahead and they should keeps their dogs on a leash.

Some highlights are the fountain I used to water down, rest and cool off (every pilgrim's dream). I also saw my first vineyard, and then they kept coming. The day ended with another Trail Angel--the owner of the Weingasthof Fritz gave me a special pilgrim's rate of 30€, incl breakfast--great room and superb Jägerschnitzel in his restaurant.

Covered 27.3 km (17 mi) to reach the Rhein River, cross it on a foot bridge tacked on next to a rail bridge, and walk a bit further to a modern youth hostel at the edge of the Mainz Volkspark (People's Park). The Main River that I've been following the past two days enters the Rhein just 200 m down stream of the bridge (see pic).

A few other things that particularly impressed me are: (1) walking under the Rhein-Main Airport landing flight path, (2) seeing my first Bike and Ride, (3) walking by a huge 2-D bar code, and (4) walking through the city of Rüsselsheim, home of the Opel car, a wholly owned GM subsidiary. But more, their lot was filled with a majority of Opels--is that brand loyalty or employer loyalty, or just a good deal??!

Although I expected more wall-to-wall city walking, I was surprised with nearly all of today either right along the Main River, or at the end through pleasant forest paths. The quad picture also shows the river boat congestion especially at the locks and the view of Frankfurt.

I found a hotel, Darmstädter Hof, that gave me a good pilgrims' discount (50€ down to 30€) and I graciously accepted--no frills, but most adequate!

I was only 30 min into my walk when I spotted this saying at a store--it so tickled me, that I had to include it in my post (I'm not suggesting that I felt the odds, nor that I'm changing my life, but we all know folks who would have benefited so much had they only felt the odds!

I noted a shift from small-town-field-forest-small-town trails to much less field and forest and instead, larger towns as I cross the Frankfurt-Mainz corridor (over the next 2 days). Then it'll be back to rural trails. The big transition today (and worthy of a pic) was to cross the Main River that feeds the Rhein in Mainz (be there in 2 days).

Although I aimed at staying in Mühlheim, the Booking.com hotel left me high and dry--it was permanently closed! So I walked an additional 2+ miles to the next town, Offenbach, to a Pakistani-owned hotel. With its large industrial sector, Offenbach is now one of those cities (126K inh.) with Germans being in the minority. This trend is expected to continue as the German fertility rate has plummeted to 1.4, some saying the lowest in the EU. (Recall, 2.1 is zero-growth!) Interestingly, I'm greeting more and more folks that look non-German, but I'm pleased to say that their response is mostly a happy one back!

By the way, I love the Döner Restaurants--good combo of salad,carbs, and meat! The pic of the Big Döner House says it all for me--it's just a surrogate for all those I've visited, a good number with Eddie.

Walked 23.4 km (14.6 mi) in the Kinzig Valley that channels its river by the same name, as well as the train, interstate freeway, and pilgrims' route. I seemed ushered downstream with the other modes with little to say about it. The picture captures the valley while looking over a wheat field.

I took a break about halfway in Gelnhausen, a typically German-looking town--but what else (see the pics, along with the third one that was shows a water stop already some 7,000 years ago, its use well established by travelers on the Via Regia). So, although I may not have had any blue shells marking my way, I'm convinced with that spring that the way is authentic.

I already had misgivings about finding a pilgrim-priced place since only a 3-star hotel was available--Booking.com listed it for $100! I ventured a look inside to see if they could help me find something more reasonable--I don't need all that luxury. Well, the receptionist, who was positive about finding something with the church, took it as a personal challenge for well over an hour. She was in disbelief that she couldn't find anything. Last resort was getting her mgr. to give me a room for 39€ (a far cry from $100!). I was happy to get that and after doing my chores went grocery shopping for "dinner"--rolled marinated herring filets--my favorite!

The 25.5 km (16 mi) seemed to go by quickly and ended a few hundreds of meters off the track at a pleasant country inn, the Landgasthof 'Zur Quelle.' As I entered they were at their peak lunch-hour service, and still the receptionist went out of her way to get me a 40% pilgrim's reduction. I was overjoyed for that and for having beaten the storm by a few hours! As you read these lines you might even feel the thundering vibrations!

As I walked past a paddle-boat rental on a dammed stream (the Kitzig that flows into the Main further downstream) my mind wandered off at the endless possibilities for fun. One of them is rehydrating with a good glass of beer (like the one in the pic).

As a summary, I'm thankful for having achieved 462 miles, and am looking forward to another 1,519. Not repeating what I walked last year and some "shortcuts" with Eddie brought the expected total to just under 2,000. I feel great and in a groove, and, barring those unforeseen things, expect to finish in about 120 days--one step at a time!

The day sprinkled me with "nice": an easy 24.3 km (15 mi); only 72 deg with some clouds; no rain, and mostly paved secondary or pedestrian/bike only roads. Many were next to the road (as in the pic). Saw an occasional blue/yellow shell marker and my brain drenched me in "happy juices"--I suddenly didn't feel alone out here but in a bigger pilgrims' world, past, present, and future. I picked up my pace, each time I saw a marker.

Tried to get lodging at the church, but no one was home. The only alternative was the city hotel listed by Booking.com for 65€, but after asking for a pilgrim's discount, she couldn't help me out, but gave me their std. rate of 59.50€. Then she called me that her mgr. allowed a rate of 52.50€ with breakfast on the house! There are trail Angels! And it's a beautiful room--too nice for a "pilgrim."

And reference Day-43, I finished walking the Fulda Gap. Four more days and I'll pass Frankfurt am Main.

Walked 29 km with a 2 km overshot error (18mi) --the constant drizzle kept me from checking my iPhone too often, and then I paid the price. I see where France and the rest of Germany is getting soaked--they're even moving some of the Louvre's art to higher ground.

The intermediate goal today was Fulda, a name that's resonated with me for over 50 years as the famous Fulda Gap through which we expected a Soviet ground attack as strategically the most likely during the Cold War years. It became a mantra all day.

I had to find a good graphic to show that ever since I started the German phase at Eisenach, it's essentially the start of the Fulda Gap, and as I continue, I follow the southern branch of the Gap when I arrive at Schlüchtern tomorrow night (it's also shown on the map). I imagined the thousands of tanks roaring around me--perfect terrain for them. Thank God the attack never came to pass!

Walked 31 km (19+ mi) all on paved roads (but much was on the muddy shoulder to avoid traffic). After Vacha there is no official waymarked trail until Paris, France. The route to there is a Google Maps creation when tying together the requisite Via Regia towns using the "walk" criterion. In Paris, recommended trails take over.

Most of the road was up and down but not as steep as that 12% stretch--that was good training for the del Norte! Lots of mining in these hills and with them the familiar "Glück Auf" greeting that miners give each other to wish them luck in opening a new lode or new rich shaft.

One of the major highlights of the day was crossing the old east-west border, even with one of the watch towers nearby. If the events in 1989 hadn't taken place, I wouldn't have been able to make this part of the journey--thank you to all who made it happen!

Am staying at a Hünefeld parish training center: a couch that's adequately comfy--see the pic. Hünefeld is a precious town with lots of Fachbau houses (exposed timber houses) that gives it a special flavor.

Took the long route of 23 km (14+ mi) on paved roads rather than through muddy, wet fields (rain was predicted earlier, but came with a downpour vengeance for the last hour). I stopped at a Gasthaus in Kieselbach and they served me the local specialty: Thüringische Klöße mit Schweinefilet (I'm in the state of Thüringen--and their big potato dumplings were a treat!!!)--I was the only one in the restaurant, but then it was only 11 AM.

On arrival at Vacha, I picked up the key to the hostel at the bookstore and was awarded a pin and a little certificate for completing the Ökumenischen Pilgerweg (the special German part of the Via Regia/Camino that ends here). The Via Regia/Camino continues on just not the "Ecumenical Part."

Vacha is precious, but few people seem to be out--the rain a while ago might explain that. I love the Fachbau style of houses and captured a pic of their city hall in that style. You can also see my tasty lunch and very modern room (in fact, the hostel is a remodel in a very old building).

On Day-40, May 30 (Memorial Day), I spent 6 hrs on regional trains (4 different ones) traveling from Görlitz to Eisenach. (Look at pic with section on train for bikes.) Arrived just in time to get a bed, as the last two nuns were leaving. It all worked out well staying at the Diakonnesian House (5€ for bed and 5€ for breakfast).

After a hearty breakfast, they had a prayer service where they asked me to describe me and my pilgrimage. At the conclusion, the sister in charge presented me with a memento--it was very touching!

Began my walk at 9 AM, first along a country road, then a rough trail into thick forest--mostly a gentle climb all the way. My biggest challenge (in all my 40 days) came when the trail ended at a locked gate to backyard of a house at a point where the nettles were waist high. My only out was to climb up a 20-ft embankment up to a road, but the slope was steep with loose humus and wet leaves and nothing to grab hold of.

For 30 min. I feared falling back down into the nettles--but I finally made it. All was easy after that, even walking through wet vegetation.

Great pilgrims' hostel and well stocked--no stores or eateries in this small village. Will meet the owner at around 6 PM. Goal is Vacha tomorrow--the official end of the German Ökumenischen Weg.

Great 27-km hike over narrow, paved country roads lead us into Görlitz. Incidentally, this last stretch lays claim to being genuinely on the Via Regia through countless archeological discoveries.

Like many intermediate milestones, this one was bittersweet in that the Polish phase ended and the German phase began. Under way, we stopped at Poland's oldest tree, the 1500-year old yew tree--of course, I expected something of the size of a redwood, but encountered instead a smallish struggling evergreen. At its age, however, I still paid him my deepest respects! Same species, BTW that the churches of peace were made of!

A few iconic pics are included of Görlitz. Now obtaining a place to stay at the Peregrinus Haus was worth blogging about. Although I has tried to get email confirmation, I was too late. A knock on their door and we were greeted by a person who turned out to be the groom of a huge wedding party on Saturday--he and his new bride et al were cleaning up a bit--no way they were authorized to let us stay there and there was no staff. After being visibly disappointed, his father (fairly high up in the Peregrinus chain of command) gave the go ahead telephonically. Needless to say, were most grateful! We celebrated our hike through Poland with a great dinner and glass of good wine.

Yesterday's rain caused us to plan our gondola trip up the mountain this morning and then take a bus to Luban around noon. Well, it continued raining this morning so our climb to the gondola was a wet one. Once on top of the 3600 ft mountain, the rain stopped and we began a hike toward the Czech Republic border, maybe a few kms. The path got so rocky, I bowed out for fear of getting a bone bruise--so I missed it by 600 m!

The pics show the gondola and the bottom right the hall of their big hotel--note the wood-carved walls and ceilings.

On the way back down, we again filled up on the "miracle" water. See Joyce Summer's comment for yesterday on what potential ailments this water might cure! Once at the bottom, the downpour was relentless and the bus schedule showed nothing go Luban today. A quick look at another night here vs a taxi (at only $25) to Luban turned into a no-brainer. While in the cab, I reserved us a "great" deal with Booking.com: a brand new Novotel Hotel suite for the two of us for $38.

Also tried to reserve something at Görlitz at the German border for tomorrow night--YES, one more day in Poland.

Walked the short distance of 6 km from the Bożkowice Wroclaw University Retreat Centers to Zlotniki (gold workers), so named because of the gold mines that existed in the vicinity. We then took a bus to the spa town of Świeradów-Zdrój, a favorite town of Eddie's, mainly because of the beautiful views from the nearby mountain.

But when we arrived and tried to look for lodging, we soon discovered it was very pricey and nearly zero availability, unless you went some 10 miles away. We felt bummed about that and the downpour that we barely avoided by having lunch under a large umbrella. Eddie checked in with the Local Information Office and located a cute room at a private residence for $15 for both of us!

The rain hasn't let up, so we postponed our gondola ride until the morning after which we'll head to Luban by bus (we already walked all except 1.5 km to Luban when we veered south to Olszyna).

Some interesting tidbits on the way to Świeradów-Zdrój: old German farming implements the Germans abandoned when they were ordered to leave Silesia at the end of WW II; Patton's Army apparently had pushed as far as Orlowice here in Poland (wow); and in Giebułtów a monk who was dispensing sins yet to be committed apparently helped trigger Luther's Reformation (I have no reference, except Eddie!).

When we first arrived here, we filled our bottles with their famous spring water laden with curative powers. I've also included some shots of the main street and their huge hotel.

Got an early start so as to make the 5.5 km to Bożkowice by 9:30. We took a look at the "castle" that rents for $250/night--the security guard let us in to look at the fabulous view and he gave us a stamp for our Credentials (1st close-up pic). Then we proceeded to our place (another 0.5 mi) to arrive at the University of Wroclaw Retreat Center nestled in the middle of the forest with 20 some cabins ($17.50 for the two of us per night). No restaurant or store anywhere around! Lots of volleyball in evening.

We got settled by 11 am and took off for a cross-country hike around the lake (actually a dam-filled reservoir). Lots of steep ups and downs--some that I wouldn't risk. Amazing paths around the lake that took us over two dams (each with hydro plants), but the highlight was Zamek Czocha, a 13th century castle (pic of it is at a distance). We didn't take the tour, but ate there instead. Just imagine the setting!

And so after six hours we made it around the lake--oh, that included coffee, goodies, and chitchat with a "friend" of Eddie's.

Gray skies accompanied us all day. We walked 28 km (17.5 mi) just a few km less than our goal of Luban would have been. We changed destination midcourse (from Luban to Olszyna) based on Eddie wanting to show me the Bożkowice area only about 6 km from Olszyna: beautiful lake, castle/hotel, etc.

The pics show the typical trails we encountered. Personally, I didn't like the deep ruts previously made by tractors while the ground was very muddy that had since hardened to the point of easily twisting your ankle. Out of caution, my pace slowed dramatically over such terrain. I've also included one of a field that when the grain matures might make the trail disappear!

We also noticed how one church steeple was newly surfaced with copper. Its "cousin" down the road still awaits a new copper facing.

Great walking day because the heat retreated and the forecasted showers for later in the day never materialized. We had a huge adventure trying to get back on our trail after it abruptly disappeared.

PocketEarth showed us where we had to go, but we just couldn't get there "easily." We went for over a mile in rapeseed fields over waist high. Pollen everywhere! The picture shows how high. Then we escaped down a slippery 10-ft bank to explore going along a defunct rail track overgrown with thistles and nettles and whatnot! My greatest fear at that moment was falling head down into the nettles (Brennesel) as I did once in Austria. Finally found a way to get back up the steep bank and on along our way--I was in disbelief for miles afterwards.

Several hours later we found ourselves plodding through a grain field that had promise of repeating the trail disappearance act. The pic shows that there wasn't much of a path! We made it, however, but wondered how.

Wonderful views along the way, and superb forest paths as shown in the pics.

We're staying at a Caritas facility (donativo only), and not many here. Our room is set up with two-double bunks, and luckily we have it to ourselves. Dinner and breakfast was a shopping trip to the grocery store: rolls, cheese, marinated herring filets, apples, and yogurt. BTW at the other end of the spectrum, the breakfast spread this morning was the best so far (included in the $22.50/person price): eggs, sausage, umpteen kinds of lunch meats and cheeses (incl tasty prosciutto) and the list goes on. We left with extra for lunch and more!

Summer weather caught up with us--I started and ended our 24-km (15-mi) walk in one short-sleeve layer. About half way through we married up with the Via Regia again and stayed on many shaded, low/traffic farm roads.

The overwhelming importance of this area around Legnica remains the Mongolian invasion during 1241. The battle here was a crushing blow for European forces, but the Mongols had no immediate intention of conquering more territory to the west, rather focusing on their conquests in Hungary. The map I'm posting that we discovered in Legnica by its castle last evening shows the region, several of the battles (with cross swords), and the various trails (szlak). Interestingly, it has the Via Regia and the Szlak sw Jakobu (St Jakob = St James) going through Legnica rather than skirting around it!

Zlotoryja is noted for its late 12th century discovery of gold (one of its earlier names being Goldberg). That alone helped bring it onto the Via Regia "map" as being on the road tying Leipzig with Wroclaw (Breslau)! Most of the gold miners fought in the 1241 Battle of Legnica and perished.

Had an amazing time sightseeing at Świdnica, Eddie's home town. We selected five points of interest:

(1) the gothic church of Sts. Wenceslas and Stanislaus with a uniquely kneeling St. John Paul II next to it;

(2) the Evangelical Church of Peace, a UNESCO Heritage site, built from 1656–57 (we saw the other Church of Peace yesterday)--notice the wooden nails to fasten the timbers (no metal allowed) and we had a look at the neglected graves around the church--neglected because the Germans were expelled from the area;

(3) the town square where we enjoyed a great local beer;

(4) the Red Baron's memorable sights, including where he lived, an unmarked memorial wall (with graffiti) and where he attended first grade (sadly, there's no fuss made over anything--the Soviets apparently cleaned out his belongings when they left--yet Manfred von Richthofen, is the greatest ace fighter pilot who ever lived credited with 80 planes shot down; and

(5) lastly a life-size statue of someone sitting on the "throne" with his naked behind exposed--the statue to be found at the outskirts of the town in front of the sewage plant entrance.