Vienna to Innsbruck 2024

The last day of any of my walks has always been bittersweet, hating to see them end, but realizing they’re only an excursion. And this one has had some interesting twists to it. It’s been a perfect walking day: cloudy and comfortably warm.

Bad Reichenhall is well known for its wellness clinics and spas. Right next to my hotel was a clinic treating cancers and psychosomatic illnesses—think about that one. So you have cancer symptoms caused by some identifiable source or by your mind—they’ll treat either one—hmmm! They’ve got you covered.

Walking back to Salzburg, several times I had to nostalgically look back; and lunch was facing the snow-covered mountains I saw two days ago. Then by a twist of fate, I ran into an American pilgrim from New Mexico; he’s not going all the way to Santiago. We chitchatted a while like two kids who just found a new playmate on the playground and exchanged information, including a selfie. Maybe a half hour later I ran into another pilgrim, an Austrian, this time, who plans to go all the way. We rested on a bench together, then continued our separate ways.

The last three pics are of my super light new Gossamer Kumo 36 backpack that Douglas gave me: first as it was loaded (about 15 lbs); unloaded with 11 pieces/bags fitting into the backpack; and finally “exploded” view with unpacked items. If anyone is interested, I actually have my packing list with me.

Today’s 12.4 mi (19.8 km) to Bad Reichenhall are part of my plan to return to Salzburg. These miles were psychologically better than originally walking upstream, because going downstream gives you the feeling you’re really going with the flow.

Each day, I‘ve gotten into the habit of making a sandwich to eat towards lunch. My favorite lunch spots have been by the rivers—today the Saalach entertained me going downstream. Still seeing a good number of cyclists and local walkers, even a group of about 20 very much in formation, two abreast, ten deep (not my preferred way to enjoy such beautiful scenery, but maybe the only way to control a tour group).

Only one more walking day left.

Today on my 20th day, I completed my outbound Austrian Camino trek (254 miles) that’s taken me from just outside of Vienna to Lofer, a few days beyond Salzburg. BTW, I did my fourth grade in Saalfelden, Austria, just 15 miles southeast of Lofer. Still have about 30 miles to walk back to Salzburg and then by train back to Vienna to begin time with relatives.

Today took me upstream along the Saalach River, a typical roaring mountain river that offers breathtaking views of the surrounding Alps—images I had hoped to find and wasn’t disappointed. Can’t describe the joy this hike has brought me and how grateful I am to be able to make it.

What a delightful walk of 12.2 miles all in Germany upstream of the mountain river Saalach that runs into Salzburg‘s Salzach a few miles upstream. Most was actually right next to the rushing sounds of the river while seeing the mountains along side the valley. The high peaks were a good 3,000 ft, but from the trail it was more like 1000 feet up to the top of the surrounding cliffs.

The walk was all about the river and the mountains and how majestic the scenery emerged as shown by the pics. I‘m staying at a fabulous place across the local church with a fantastic kitchen!

It took me the first 2 1/2 mi to leave Salzburg with its airport being one of the last reminders of the busy suburbs. Heading generally southwesterly, you felt the beginnings of the alps surrounding you until arriving at Bad Reichenhall which is definitely an alpine town as well as a very popular spa resort area known for its high-salt spa pools.

I shared this section of the Austrian Camino with a few horses and walkers but mostly lots of cyclists. Had a great lunch just across the small Marzoll Castle but was surprised with steep climbs afterwards that were so serenely quiet forest areas compared to yesterday’s hustle and bustle. One of the markers told me I still had 2,420 km (1512 mi) to go until Santiago!

At 6.8 mi (10.9) km with zigzags, it was a short day to thoroughly enjoy the Salzburg scene and do some planning ahead and replanning for the next 5 walking days. Seeing the city of Salzburg from a distance stirred within me many feelings of long ago—it was the city from which we emigrated and it was where I began learning English for 2 1/2 months—not much, but it was my start, and sentimentally I still have that first book from which I started in the fall of 1951 (beginning 5th grade)!

The city has not lost its charm and the number of tourists seems to have grown, and it’s not even high season yet with the festival not starting until mid-July. I just looked and saw so many operas and plays (like Jedermann) already sold out!

Many notable sights are those of tourist interest with the exception of Christian Doppler‘s birth house. I‘ll try to provide some labels: Salzburg‘s castle on the hill in the distance; walking through the baroque Mirabelle Palace Gardens (bridal party, fountain); leaving Mirabelle and looking up to the castle and the cathedral with its two domes below; Doppler‘s birthplace; walking over the Salzach River bridge with countless locks from newly weds; Getreide Gasse (most famous tourist street of old town); Salzburger Nockerl (most famous soufflé dumpling dessert usually ordered for two or three!); front of Cathedral where Jedermann is played during the Festival (totally sold out); Mozart‘s birth house; and last but not least, a statue of Salzburg‘s native son: Mozart.

Today’s 13.4 mi (21.4 km) took me through the beautiful countryside with spectacular views. My first rest was at a pond on a floating pontoon bench; then a walk through the forest and a scene of happy cows; a visit to St Brigida (aka St Brigitte) Church; a fight at my luncheon restaurant that police was called to stop; the beer man made of beer kegs; and a cyclist accident that happened before my very eyes (no pics—would have been most impolite).

Being only about 5 miles from Salzburg, I will use tomorrow to replan my itinerary and buy train tickets to take the train the following day (Mother’s Day, May 12th) to my walking endpoint (TBD) and walk back to Salzburg over the remaining five days to put me in Vienna on Friday, May 17th.

Today’s 13.6 mi (21.8 km) was a preplanned veering off course due to lodging, although some time was spent on the Austrian Camino. Tomorrow I‘ll be on it again for some of the way.

As it turns out, 8 miles west of here where I‘m staying is a lake and town called Mattsee where I did my 3rd grade ‘49/‘50 in a boarding school. It’s also where I chipped my kneecap caused by jumping on my bed, then getting my knee infected (and not telling anyone) and being rushed to a Salzburg Hospital for emergency surgery—what memories—all good new experiences!

The countryside was peppered with farm houses and very small villages that seemed more concerned about working the land than political issues—haven’t seen political signs and am seeing more traditional Lederhosen and Dirndln, to me a sign of people doing their own thing. I also noted by the accents that many minorities live in these smaller towns.

 Today threatened rain for the entire 14.2 mi (22.7 km), but luckily it was only bluffing. I pretty much followed the Austrian Camino Route, but was thankful I had the electronic track because during very narrow trails along farmers‘ fields there were no markings and many choices for wrong turns. That GPS is amazing—how did we ever do it without it!

Took a break in a little town of Vöcklabruck that had it’s weekly market in full swing—nice to see all that action. Other interesting things that caught my attention: the biggest chair I’ve ever seen; paths next to streams and over bridges; really narrow path; flowering rapeseed fields (think Canola); herd of deer watching me; and many really happy cows.

Today’s cushy 10.7 mi (17.1 km) was again all Austrian Camino, this time mainly along the Ager Stream that provided the pleasant trickling sound of water over the river rocks. Leaving the village of Stadl-Paura, I gained a morning view of the majestic Lambach Abbey (1056–wow).

Here and there I saw a few indicators that I was correctly on the Pilgerweg (Camino), and I even spotted the indicator showing that both directions were correct ( which was wrong according to my electronic track).

Entering Attnang-Puchheim, I spotted an outsized interest in baseball, and it turns out to be home if a baseball team as well as home of the Austrian Baseball Association. My hotel, 4-star old-world luxury, is over the top in decadence—pilgrims don’t deserve this level, but there’s not much to choose from (on hotels.com or booking.com) in this lovely town of 9,000 and the price is right, at least for this trip.

Today’s hike of 13.2 miles (21.1 km) should have been one mile less had I known the lodging’s entrance. I arrived at the rear, but could have made it a shorter route heading straight to the front of Kapellerhof Hotel, which incidentally has an interesting relationship to the nursing home it adjoins.

It was the most rustic path yet (anywhere from a foot to three feet wide) that I’ve taken as any segment of the Austrian Camino—absolutely wonderful—this was true Camino. Once I left my Wels Hotel and made it back down to the Traun River (a tributary to the Danube) the path followed the Traun very closely coming within feet of the water in a few places. At three or four places my pace came down to a crawl for fear of slipping down the embankment into the water (balance isn’t what it used to be).

Near the end, I chose to walk up the hill in the neighboring town of Lambach to tour the Benedictine Abbey founded in 1056. Just so hard to imagine any institution dating that far back. Interestingly, in 1897/98, Hitler lived in this town with his parents and attended the monastery school, where he saw the swastika used in decorative carving on the stone and woodwork of the building. He later used it as the NAZI symbol—and the rest is history.

Knowing there would be no dinner (Monday is Ruhetag—rest day—for most establishments), I elected to have a smoked mackerel and a Radler (popular beer/Limonade combo) at what turned out to be a popular cyclist stop—yummy!

Today’s 20+ miles (32.3 km) are this trip‘s high. Am still intertwining with the Austrian Camino and am three days ahead in making reservations only because some smaller towns have few choices and I’m avoiding getting caught out of luck.

It was interesting leaving Linz and finding all the big shopping centers/stores on the outskirts of the city. Being Sunday, everything is closed. However, after two hours, I was ready for a break and ran into a Turkish Restaurant (Istanbul Restaurant) filled with Turkish families. Had to order a Turkish coffee, which, after I told the owner I had been to Istanbul twice and loved it, especially Hagia Sophia, was free!

What saved me later with cold drinks were the store vending machines along the way—it’s incredible what you can buy. Other interesting encounters: leaving via Linz’s main square, a Tesla dealership, a rehydration station for a big World Run Event (synchronized the world over) that offered me Gatorade and runners appearing in yellow shirts, political signs, especially the one: “Stop the EU Craziness that shows Von der Leyden kissing Selinski,”  noting that I’ve been on the Camino all along (little sign on the pole).

Today’s walk of 16.3 mi (26.6 km) was my last along the Danube (I’ll veer southwest to Salzburg tomorrow) and I took fully advantage of the Donaufahrradweg as opposed to the Austrian Camino that ran parallel with it. The Camino wasn’t paved so you had to go slower to watch for the rocks, and you had no view of the Danube—that was an easy choice. Early on, I was forced to walk on a busy highway for a mile with essentially no shoulder to save a few miles—on the Bundesstraßen I think it’s not allowed, although three police cars went by me and didn’t stop me!

My highlight was the Urfahr (name of a Linz District) Festival Market that welcomed me in Linz and after having a rehydrating beer I had a Schaumrolle, a 4 in puff pastry filled with whipped cream—a sheer delight. And after getting settled in my hotel, I went down there for supper: Bratwurst with sauerkraut and a Semmel and beer. At night, it’s even more spectacular. Just unbelievable how many people were wandering around.

And where we stopped in 2000 in Linz on our Danube cruise, they had three river cruise boats—Linz is still popular.

I dedicated 6 hours today to the Mauthausen Memorial Site with rain falling during half my visit and return trip to the hotel, and it was the Austrian Camino that led the ascending way from my hotel to the Site. The clouds and the drizzle added to the somberness. Kudos to the Mathausen Memorial Site IT support team—theirs is a wonderful app that you can download and through it take your tour at each of the audio markers or play it at home using the index.

How do I even summarize my experience today—my feelings—maybe little different from seeing Dachau 60 years ago and Auschwitz (on my long Camino) just 8 years ago. But, yes, there is a difference as I see the ever-optimistic me aging and resigning to the reality that Hitlerites will continue to come along and followers will continue to rally with them and appease them. And the good thing is that both will lose in the end (history bears that out) but at what cost! It seems unavoidable—oh, maybe the Hegelian conflict theory they taught me 60 some years ago was right.

The few pictures I posted capture the mood: the gas chamber, the crematorium, stair of death that the inmates had to carry heavy pieces of granite from the quarry to the top (level of their camp). Individual countries have erected some very deeply moving memorials.

Today’s walk of 13.1 mi (21 km) was mostly on the Austrian Camino Pilgerweg that reminded me of the real Camino—I’ve been spoiled by the Danube bicycle route that’s mainly flat and easy to walk on. Some of the trail is hardly recognizable as a trail. I was especially grateful for a rest stop with a refrigerator selling juices on the honor system—I had an Austrian product: Happy Day‘s carbonated black currant juice that was exceptionally refreshing!

Since Mauthausen is in the state of Upper-Austria, I had to cross the Danube for the first time!

Taking a rest day tomorrow to pay my respects to those who suffered so tragically at the Mauthausen Concentration Camp, dating back to 1938 when Germany annexed Austria. It’s only 2 km from my hotel that overlooks the Danube. And besides, it’s going to rain which will befittingly make it a somber day.

Today’s 12 mi (19.2 km) were full of surprises. First, I was met with the May Day Parade Band as I walked out of the hotel—not yet playing, just meeting up and drinking beer at 8:00 AM. This is traditionally a big holiday, and when I arrived at Wallsee, it didn’t disappoint.

They held their annual 8+ km (5 mi) run with nearly 500 starters and all the fanfare and excitement that goes with that: so much energy and so many people warming up. I had just gotten my Radler (half beer and half lemonade) when the race started. I stayed a bit further down the trail to see the last ones finish.

But then came my last surprise: I found myself walking on the Camino for the last 3 miles, with the usual shell signage, and the hard pack and coarse gravel up-and-down trails—just like old times. I found myself climbing about few hundred feet for the first time. And tomorrow will be all Camino (Pilgerweg) again!

Today’s 17.5 mi (28 km) was again near the river so that I hardly felt the 79 deg (26 C). The scenery was spotted with barges, a few cruise ships, and imposing landmarks like the Greinburg Castle that dates back to 1423.

At about 1:00PM, I encountered an interesting proprietor of a restaurant that happened to close two years ago as a result of COVID. As I entered his restaurant, I learned about the closure, but still he invited me in and treated me for drinks and a bite to eat.

Today’s 16.4 mi (26.2 km) was again nearly all next to the Danube and with the temperature reaching nearly 80, next to the water felt refreshingly cool. As I left Melk, I passed through its quaint square and once at the bottom saw the magnificent Benedictine Abbey that was founded in 1089. I had visited it on several prior occasions, hence no effort to visit it again. Today’s beautiful Baroque Abbey dates to the early 1700s and is well worth a visit.

I also saw my first of the 18 Danube power stations (9 in Austria)/locks. The Danube just upstream of the lock seemed so glassy calm. The town of Pöchlarn was a surprise in that it’s home to one of my favorite expressionist painters, Oskar Kokoschka. Wish I could have visited his house, but felt I had a schedule to keep (not time, but energy),

And last of the surprises was my first view of Lower Austria‘s majestic (and highest) 6811 ft Schneeberg of the northeastern Border Alps. With the 75-mi long pipeline, it provides Vienna with the world’s best drinking water—yes, I was spoiled growing up.

Today’s 12.6 mi (20.2 km) was totally next to the Danube and was it ever busy with cruise ships whose decks were filled with tourists. Also lots of bicycles on the bike path, so many that some decided to take to the road instead of the bike path—a thrilling walk today!

The second picture won the trifecta for me: (1) one of many medieval castles along the Danube, (2) a cruiseship and (3) a fairy one periodically sees to get to the other side.

The vineyards were more scarce and instead one sees lots of fruit orchards. Technically, the Wachau Valley ends at Melk and so do the vineyards.

Today‘s 13.5 miles (21.6 km) was mostly on the Danube Bicycle Path (with lots of bicycles today) along the river and alongside the vineyards (mostly Grüner Veltliner varietal). BTW, the small towns I mention as from/to are so small you won’t find them on the map, and that’s why I include each day’s rough coverage. I passed the town of Dürnstein today on the other side, perhaps one of the most iconic places on the Danube, always a stop for the tour boats. Here is where the English King Richard the Lionhearted was imprisoned in 1192, high up on the hill where you can still climb up to the ruins.

I also walked along apple and apricot orchards, planted like grapevines so they can be grown and harvested more efficiently. But one of my personal highlights was my race with a loaded barge going upstream with me; it was close and s/he stayed with me for a good 20 minutes and then clearly pulled ahead. It was close for a while and really had my adrenaline going—crazy!