Started the Via Regia today from Görlitz--how exciting for me! Had breakfast with a Berliner some 8 years younger and met him again coincidentally at the hostel in the evening--his first pilgrimage and backpack twice the size of mine. Headed out using both guide books and my indispensable PocketEarth (tracking app) and the excellent waymarking (See pics) on the paths that exceeded my expectations--every bit as good as on the Camino!

I reached the summit (938ft) after about 10 mi. and as usual for Europe, I found a great restaurant and met up with Hugo. He's enjoying a beer in front of the "mattress" rocks, a really neat rock formation. I've missed him!

After lunch only an hour to Arnsdorf. I headed straight for the church and next door found a very modern hostel (see pics). Across the courtyard from the hostel was the old barn since transformed into a movie and eating space for the pilgrims, as well as bed overflow. Only two of us!

(Can't seem to upload pics! But am trying again on 6 May.)

Wolfgang and Ria got me off on a 9:30 am train. Four hours on the road and I arrived at this precious city that was easy to navigate, especially with PocketEarth! Easily found my Albuerge-- a big place, but only two of us (I think). I'm now here at the official beginning of my walk at the foot of the old bridge in Görlitz that the Russians blew up when they retreated after WWII--it's also a hot spot! On the other side, I actually entered Poland and peaked at the usual border stuff like cigarettes. Saw my first Via Regia sign--they're all over. Can you see it at the bottom left of the one picture? From the bridge you can see St Peter and Paul's church--an impressive landmark  that's an icon of the city. People out everywhere--very touristy.

My last day with relatives was spent visiting castles, the very ones whose kings probably defended the Via Regia where I'll start walking on the 4th. The Rochlitz Castle was special in that it has the same family name as Bianca and Marcel!!!! Fantastic, very large museum there that we all enjoyed--and for the first time too. Note the pics.

And another treat were the many rapeseed fields in bright yellow. They're a member of the mustard family and used to produce cooking oil.

Today's national holiday for the workers was an occasion for showing off the latest weaponry in bygone communist days. Today, by contrast, was quiet--only the piles of witches fires still smoldered. Following a family dinner at Bianca and Marcel's, we drove through the countryside to see some unusual layered boulder formations, punctuated our outing with extravagant deserts and entered the Czech Republic a bit to tank up and do a little shopping. The pictures show a few highlights including the view from our "desert" restaurant into the Czech Republic.

In the late evening we watched "Let's Dance," the German version of "Dancing with the Stars"--point evaluations are much stricter here--not unusual to get 2s and 3s!

Went along with the family for their routines. As shown on the pictures, they included a stop at the beer store. Then we did something special: a visit to the Space Museum 24 mi away in the unlikely town of Morgenröthe-Rautenkranz where the first DDR (former East Germany) astronaut, Sigmund Jähn, was born in 1937. He made his flight in 1978. I'm standing in front of a European Space Agency Ariane 5, and Nico and Wolfgang are sitting in front of a MIR Simulator--all cool stuff!

Towards evening, we walked over to help celebrate the local Hexenfeuer (witches' fire--burning piles of wood to ward off the witches). The fire dpmt. sponsors the event: they raised the May pole (Nico's school is in background in picture); they guarded the fire; and kept people in line (lots of beer and food). Success: all witches disappeared.

The last 36 hours I spent immersing myself in the lives of Wolfgang and Ria, their daughter Bianca and Marcel, and their son Nico. The relation traces back to Wolfsng being a cousin on the maternal side of our daughters. On the 28th we got reacquainted and today we delved into some serious routines: taking Nico to his third grade class (see pic); getting Wolfgang's leased Volkswagen ready to trade in on a new model as part of a special employee's lease program (his 35th car)--see pics of old and new car; and visiting the local Horch Auto Museum (once the original Audi factory), Horch being one of the four Audi rings (the other three representing Audi, DKW, and the Wanderer).

After checking Nico's homework, we set out for the nearby Vogtland Arena, a winter and summer ski jump training venue. We took a ride up to the top for an added perspective. BTW, we saw remnants of snow that fell yesterday.

I begin walking in 5 days when rain is scheduled!! I'm ready!

My time here in northern Germany with our friends, James, Brigitte, and Heiner is fast drawing to a close. Despite the drizzle yesterday, we visited their local car show and I had to take a picture of an old Trabant (it harkens back to the DDR days--its cardboard body and other aspects are the brunt of many German jokes)-- check out the attached pic. For dinner, James prepared a Vienna Onion Roast--yummy!

Spent a splendid day with friends, Brigitte, James, and Heiner, first driving north to Nordstrand, Nordfriesenland, Germany to look at the North Sea--windy, drizzly, but a great matjes roll for lunch (one of my favorite fish: young immature marinated herring). It only got better with a visit to the Emil Nolde Museum. He was one of the first expressionists as a member of "Die Brücke." The picture of us in front of some of his works gives an idea of his style. For dinner--you guessed it--more matjes!

Spent two gorgeous days with the Kunzes, seeing the highlights of Rendsburg and enjoying their scrumptious meals and hospitality. The picture shows the old town hall, the suspended ferry over the East-west Canal, and scenes from tonight's dinner. What's missing is Hainer, their son who traveled some seven hours from Marburg to Rendsburg by train to surprise me---yes, train. The strike is over!!!! We'll catch a photo of him tomorrow. A real treat tonight was a DVD of a man with Parkinson's who made the Camino de Santiago--amazing feat!

Had a super first leg of the flight--a whole row on the plane to sleep on the way. At Heathrow I managed my way through the bus maze: where to catch it; where to buy an oyster (my multi-day ticket); where to get off; where's my hostel??? The picture says it all--you bet I'm intense. My backpack with four bottles in it was pretty heavy to have to schlepp it any further than necessary.....My adventure has started--I love it!

I'm flying out tomorrow (Apr 21), heading to Germany, first visiting friends then family, and beginning a short 450 km section of the Via Regia on May 4th. The attached photo shows my good friend and walking buddy Geoff (on the right). We just finished leading a group of 16 pilgrims on a 11-mile hike with 1000-ft climb. Both of us are ready for some hiking: he on the Portuguese Camino and I on the Via Regia.

Can't believe it's over. The last 24.9 km (15.6 mi) took me to the goal, walking through beautiful countryside with a little drizzle nearly the whole time. I have Rainer to thank for getting us early to Santiago. He had a strong pace and left little time for breaks. On arrival, we almost immediately ran into several peregrinos we lost contact with earlier--a real reunion that continued for hours as others popped up.

First line of business was getting a room, then came the one-hour wait for the Compostela (certificate), followed by several beers and meeting Phillip (from Germany) who then joined us for dinner celebration. The pics speak for themselves:

Today's 18.1 km (11.3 mi) led me through some of the most beautiful scenery of the entire Camino. The forest smell and sounds of so much water trickling all around me made me stop here and there to imprint a memory.

The Albuerge is next to an 18th century Carmelite Monastery that gives it a special aura. The town of some 90,000 is revered as a special Jacobean venue. It was here that the apostle St. James landed and started his preaching. Two pictures say it all, one on top of a hill (also the front cover of my guide) where he preached and a second with the original stone where St. James's boat tied up on the River Sar, the stone illuminated under the main altar.

Only one more day!

23.1 km (14.4 mi) closer to Santiago--only two days left and feeling bittersweet about it. The walk through river valleys with many Albariño vines was a real treat. Many of us pilgrims now know each other and we wave as we leapfrog each other on the Camino. It's particularly special seeing the old Roman road designator number XIX (see pic). Who knows who all walked these roads and now I am--a small thrill.

Caldas de Reis is named after the natural hot springs. One pic had me standing in front of the one springs used for washing. Also took a pic of my favorite Galician architecture with columns holding the first floor.

A few uphill climbs and and paths through mixed forests took me 18.2 km (11.4 mi) to a great looking albuerge in Pontevedra. Four of us shared a washer and I took advantage of it and did my pants too. May not sound important to the casual reader, but it is to a tired pilgrim--it was a gift.

The town has some 83K people in it and has been described as an old Galician town. Many, many old, important looking buildings greet you in the center. I forwent a nap just to get a better impression--vale la peina (it was worth my pain).

Here are just a few impressions, one of which included the Parador (state-run 5-star hotels usually in very old settings), the Pilgrim Chapel in the shape of a shell on the Peregrina (female peregrino) Square, and City Hall:

An easy 14.9 km (9.3 mi) brought me to my first views of the ocean inlet since Porto. Lovely walk--great albuerge at the end of the day, even though a number of us had to wait a half an hour for it to open. Had my first GOOD pulpo (octopus) on the Camino and expect more as I approach Santiago and beyond. Two German ladies are pushing their friend in a wheel chair to Santiago--an amazing task! Had a beer with them and talked about their adventure--enough for their lifetimes.

So much going in here--festivities, music, artisans selling their wares. It's almost too much for the senses. Here are a few pics.

Beautiful day for getting 19.3 km (12 mi) behind me--now under 100 km left. The past heavy rains have washed out a few areas, but everyone managed to use the adjoining fields as a makeshift detour.

Discovered the cause of my bone bruise: sandals have a crack in sole (too old) that let some jagged rocks intrude. My fault. I should have replaced them.

Going through Tui, my first Spanish town, I stopped in at a small church adjacent to a convent to find four nuns at their morning prayers. At first I felt as if I were intruding, but after a few minutes more as an invited guest. Witnessing, no, immersing in a Camino context in the power of the church--the total dedication some practice--is beyond words.

I have dozens of photos from today--beautiful gripping scenes--but these four nuns by far have punctuated the day for me!

Walked about 20 km (12.5 mi) much of it in the rain and on asphalt to baby my bone bruise--it's getting better. Part of Valenca is within the medieval walls with very narrow streets and lots of touristy shops and eateries. I'm now on the Spanish border, with Tui just on the other side that marks the 100 km mark. I'll only have 5 or 6 days depending where I make the night breaks.

Here are some cute pics, one that exemplifies a pilgrim toward the end of the journey, pathetic looking, in one word. Another is the view across the River Minho.

Over half the route (16.8 km; 10.5 mi) led me during intermittent rain through natural paths that kept me off main roads. This segment marked the steepest cumulative climb of the Portuguese Camino when I reached the high pass up the Labruja Valley at 405 m (1330 ft), this from nearly sea level at the beginning of the day. A few 30- to 40-meter segments brought me to all fours as I tried to keep my fragile balance over the slippery rocks. Two cyclists from South Africa REALLY struggled carrying their bikes!

Several hours earlier, I waded through mud and at least six inches of flowing streams that flooded the path--my inner sox never got wet. Still babying a bone bruise at the bottom of my left foot caused by the jagged rocks of the past two days, I'll try to stay on asphalt roads to tomorrow's goal of Tui (Spanish border).

After last night's ascetic experience, I sprang for a Pensao with private room, shower, sheets, and pillows all for 20€. That includes breakfast and travel to a restaurant tonight--not much around here.

The few pictures can't begin to capture the day's beauty and beastly ruggedness.

Nearly all of my 14.5 km (9 mi) walk was in the rain. It was almost mystical at times. Arrived at noon only to discover that the albuerge didn't open till 4 pm. They're very austere--no blanket, sheets, or pillow. This is pure, raw pilgrim style--I'm not complaining! I'm using the WI-FI in the restaurant next door.

The pics show the difference between last night and today, as well as of the town as one enters with music piped in all around to welcome you.