Today's intermittently drizzly 21-mile walk through wall-to-wall beach cities was exciting. There's a different air about everything. Shops with hoity-toity names featured a range of products and services you'd only see here (and surely in Beverly Hills). I point to just a single example: a car spa with membership provisions, on and on--this is obviously for your very high-end cars! I couldn't begin to explain all this to Alfonso. Oh, speaking of him, I managed to capture a photo of him as he usually sits to dine with me-- check it out.

And a final thought. Nature knows how to "go with the flow." Check out the photo of the tree blown down by nature's forces. The tree simply hugs the ground and keeps right on growing! It's going with the flow--a lesson for all of us. BTW, so many breathtaking views of the ocean brought be to the doorstep of the 19th mission (Mission San Juan Capistrano) that I'll see tomorrow.

I'm very grateful for Joanie's and Jim's hospitality in hosting a pilgrim in their lovely house last night--thank you! Today's trek of 15.3 miles includes a mile or so going north on the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) to avoid the high-rent district and to avoid using my tent, which I didn't even bring on this leg. My walk was nearly the extent of Harbor Blvd. heading due south. One of the more interesting photos captures some great garden sculptures--nearly an entire zoo. I also had some explaining to do to Alfonso about what these machines were doing just a few blocks from our motel.

I'm also recapping the end-game as I arrive in San Diego: Arrive: Thu, 11/8 Dana Point (20 mi) Arrive: Fri, 11/9 mission San Juan Capistrano / San Clemente Motel (14 mi) Arrive: Sat, 11/10 Oceanside Motel (walk through Camp Pendleton) (23 mi) Arrive: Sun, 11/11 Mission San Luis Rey and return to Oceanside Motel (10 mi) Arrive: Mon, 11/12 Cardiff by the Sea (stay with Sean) (12+ mi) Arrive. Tue, 11/13 San Diego (15+ mi) (stay with Sean) Arrive: Wed, 11/14 Mission San Diego (15+ mi) (stay with Sean) Arrive: Thu, 11/15 Ventura via train.

Alfonso was aghast during today's 15+ miles as we went from one city to the next--all that concrete! We woke up in Whittier, went through La Mirada, then Buena Park, a tad of Fullerton (which brought back memories of working a proposal with Hughes Fullerton back in '89), and finally Anaheim. He had trouble comprehending the concept of "Disneyland." Nothing like that existed 200 years ago! "Going on rides" was completely foreign! I had trouble explaining it to Alfonso! Note the record shot in front of the Disneyland entrance.

Tonight I have the pleasure of staying with fellow American Pilgrims fairly close to Disneyland! They're friends of Grant's/Anita's and have graciously opened their house to me. The kindness that's come my way on this adventure is astounding!

It was nature's last chance to lash out at me with a 93-degree temperature during this adventure. With only an 11.5 mile trip, it had little effect on me except to drink more. Rumor has it that the temperature will fall markedly during my final 8 days. Daydreaming about my ensuing book on the Mission Walk and captivated by one of my American Pilgrim's (Grant's) suggestions of using a historical figure (rather than simply my "Hugo" buddy), I dwelled on, we'll call him Alfonso, his utter disbelief of the miles of concrete we were walking on. When Alfonso last saw this area there were dirt paths connecting pueblos and missions. But Alfonso's eyes lit up as we passed Pio Pico's hacienda--he was familiar with the haciendas of his day. He also asked me if the black thing in front of the Pio Pico Marker was an offering. I simply said, "Maybe," and changed the subject. Incidentally, Pico's history pervades that of Southern California, but no less important is Pico's medical history of his acromegaly and almost miraculous cure in old age caused by a pituitary apoplexy--it's amazing and worth a google!

My 19-mile journey started in the heart of Glendale then went east through Pasadena. A hearty breakfast at the Pasadena Central Park Cafe had me backtrack a bit, but it was well worth it. Turning south on Los Robles and onto Garfield, I passed through San Marino and Alhambra, and then turning east onto Mission Rd, I finally arrived in the small city of San Gabriel with its beautiful mission (4th in the series of 21). Bottom line: wall-to-wall cities. Of course it'll be that way for nearly the rest of the walk (except for Camp Pendleton). Cumulative mileage stands at 739 miles with only 3 missions left and 9 days to go!

So many pics to choose from, but here are the finalists--things you don't see every day: a 36-line high-power electric feed (this is NOT a small town getting electricity!); taking a break across the Norton Simon Museum; waiting in line to buy their iPad Mini; a huge mural on the Alhambra US Post Office; and several photos of Mission San Gabriel.

My plans for a 13-mile day were dashed when I discovered that my planned motel had no vacancy (the dreaded "completo" sign on the Camino). I kissed it off and just kept walking and walking until I discovered the Maryland Hotel (on my route) for the pilgrim price of $44+ tax--and I'm one block from a vibrant Glendale downtown area. It doesn't get any better than that. And, the receptionist and I have a deal: I won't bring a pet (as per regulation), if she doesn't unleash any little critters on me during the night!! So we have a deal! My 18+ miles were delightful as I walked for miles and miles along Laurel Canyon Blvd. The three most impressive facets were the San Gabriel mountains not far to my left watching over me (they actually stayed with me for the entire day); the many, many wrought iron fences around the properties (from ultra ornate to plain Jane, all serving as a demarcation of what's outside and what's inside); and lastly I saw dozens and dozens of colorful "garage" sales along the way. Another interesting site was passing the San Fernando Valley Racing Pigeon Club! You've got to ask yourself how often you've passed such a club in your lifetime, and only then make fun of my excitement over it! Because of the extra five miles today, I see myself making it to Mission San Gabriel tomorrow and overnighting it in Rosemead tomorrow as well (that means one less day). That'll only make for a 17-mile day.

A 22+ mile day got me over the Santa Susana Pass with its rugged boulders strewn everywhere--the old road connected the early settlements and served the stage coaches as well as the missions. Specifically the pass connects the San Fernando Valley with Simi Valley.

At the end of the old pass road, I took Topanga Canyon to Devonshire and headed east on it at breakneck speed to make it before the mission closed at 4:30. The super-friendly staff helped me make it in time! A sheer coincidence is the fact that this mission was my 17th as well as having been founded 17th! The fourth mission church, the gem we see today, is an exact replica of the earlier one erected between 1804 and 1806. You can judge its beauty from the photos.

"Home Shuttle Service" drove me to Somis--can't believe we didn't stop to have one of their superb breakfast burritos at the Somis Cafe! From there I walked 16 miles to Simi Valley. What a surprise there to meet Carolyn Phillips from the Strathearn Historical Park and Museum--they had caught wind of the Ventura County Star article about me that was published in today's paper. Thanks so much for the cold bottle of water! The photo marks their location directly on my route. BTW, this is the link to the news article: http://www.vcstar.com/news/2012/oct/31/ventura-resident-journeys-on-foot-to-visit-all/

Happy Halloween! My journey today, a short 13.3 miles, continued through Ventura on Telephone Rd. onto Wells and heading east on highway 118. Most of the walk bordered on our vibrant agricultural fields (strawberries, blackberries enshrouded by plastic, lemon orchards, and a variety of vegetables). I saw the spirit of Halloween throughout my walk these last three weeks--the Petersen Ranch Fruit Stand epitomized it, as you can see.

I started today's trek with a visit into the mission, which was closed last evening. I was looking forward to meeting with Father Tom Elewaut after his mass, but we failed to hook up. The garden provided some special moments and views for pictures, after which I saw the morning buzz in downtown Ventura. I would have been remiss not turning up California Street and paying my respects to the large statue of Fray Serra in front of our City Hall, and having a photo taken. The short 7.5 mile walk took me to the east end of Main St. and then out on Telephone with a slight detour to our house.

The 18-mile walk started after "home shuttle service" dropped me off at Carpinteria, of course after devouring a huge breakfast and packing lots of lunch food. After leaving Carpinteria, I found myself walking on the shoulder of 101--noisy but adequately shouldered. Once on the old Pacific Coast Highway (PCH), the walk became a pleasant walk along the beach front. Strange to be walking along a "tsunami hazard zone"--bet Juan Bautista de Anza had no idea of that hazard! The photographer from the Ventura County Star met me about a mile out from the mission and started shooting away. To my surprise nearly thirty hometown friends made an appearance at the mission at about 4:30pm to congratulate me on this 16th milestone (with only 5 more missions to go). It truly warmed my heart to see the support. Hanna, reporter from the Ventura County Star Newspaper interviewed me and then a group of ten of us finished the event at Yolies with some good Mexican food and drink--a real fun occasion. Particularly noteworthy about the mission is that it was the ninth and last to be founded by Father Serra (March 31, 1782). Like so many other missions, earthquakes, fires, and other disasters have necessitated numerous reconstructions of the church itself. It matters little how close or far what we see today corresponds to what existed early on--it's a joy to feel the history! Here are a few photos along the way:

When I came down from the San Marcos Pass, Lucille (our family friend) picked me up and coddled me for the evening (hot shower, great home-cooked meal and a comfy bed) and gave me a send-off with a hot breakfast, sandwiches, and snacks for later. A short, six-mile walk later had me meeting Father Charles at the Mission Santa Barbara. He was about to start mass, but took time out to give me a special blessing and wished me well in my adventure to see the remaining 6 missions! Honestly, it was the warmest welcome thus far. Santa Barbara Mission was founded Dec 4th, 1786 (10th in order). The mission's nickname is "Queen of the Missions" because of its beautiful exterior--the only one with two towers. I've attached two photos. The rest of the journey (another 13 miles, making a total of 19 miles), headed through the city of Santa Barbara down to the beach then along frontage roads to Carpinteria. "Home shuttle service" picked me up for a special night at home and will take me back to Carpinteria tomorrow a.m.

Spent a night getting reacquainted with my tent at Lake Cashuma Campgrounds. The area is quite pretty and the camp store served me well the night before in helping me quench my thirst.

The first five hours were a steady climb up the San Marcos Pass along route 154 (2700-foot climb in all). I might add with an extremely skimpy shoulder one needs great vigilance. Once at the top, I walked along 154 some more, but then turned onto the old San Marcos Road, which has its history linked to the stage coach route. Check out these pictures first of lake Cachuma and then the view of Santa Rosa channel island as I walked on the old San Marcos Road.

Really short day so far up to Mission Santa Ines (Saint Agnes), and a warm welcome by the volunteer staff and one of the Franciscan priests. An early post in case I find myself without service at the Cachuma Rec Area tonight.

The church had an audio tour one could activate by pushing buttons within the church--well done. In stark contrast to Mission la Purisima, Mission Santa Ines is warm and befitting a venue still used for mass. BTW, a marker in the garden tells of this location as the first place of higher education within California. Here are several pics:

The early parts of my 19.5-mile walk had me looking directly into the bright sun--I was walking to east climbing out of the Lompoc Valley into the Santa Ynez Valley. I was observing an amazingly interesting phenomenon: nearly all mountain ranges on the North American Continent run north-south--not this one! Of course, it wasn't always that way. Some 12 million years ago it was orderly, then rotated 110 deg clockwise and thus we end up with a beautiful traverse range some 70 miles long that stretches from where Point Concepcion meets the Pacific all the way to Ojai! What's more it's a single-crested range with "phenomenal" character. It also screws most of us up who live in its shadows, because when we look out into the ocean, we're looking south (not west).

Besides seeing an increasing number of vineyards, I noted a few sites unique to this part of the country: Chumash Indian Casino buses making their runs to Lompoc (the Casino is just east of Solvang); black/raspberries enshrouded in plastic to avoid the birds' damage; and at least three bicycle groups with guide motorcycles and support vehicles. It was a fun day, as all of them have been!

I meant to add this photo of a stretch of the walk because it so reminded me of Cappadocia, Turkey, the venue of my novel, Storm over Cappadocia. Although the scale of these structures is much smaller, the same kinds of erosion effects have taken place--awesome!

I started today's journey riding the bus some 30 minutes along with students going to their schools that seemed a long way from their home. We headed south from Santa Maria to Orcutt. On the trail, it was a gentle climb until I found myself on the legendary Harris Grade Road which, in fact, used to be the old PCH--Route 1. It connects the Los Alamos Valley with the Lompoc Valley and is so dangerous in terms of sharp and blind curves and numerous switchbacks, that Santa Barbara County voted in 2010 to ban all semis / trucks longer than 30 feet. To avoid the blind curves, I had to switch sides of the road numerous times.

The pluses of the Harris Grade Road are stunning panoramic views of Lompoc valley, passing through a 100-year old oil field, and seeing rare Bishop pines who release their seeds only during a forest fire!

Arriving at Mission La Purisima, I was reminded that the California State Parks manages this mission, the only other one being my first one, Mission Solano. It was the 11th mission founded (Dec 8, 1787 by Padre Lasuen). See the enclosed pics.

Today's 12.5 mi followed more of the Juan Bautista de Anza Trail paralleling the Santa Lucia mountains, which by now are more properly "hills." A huge breakfast, a short walk, a half of a backpack (the other half staid at the motel), and a praline malt at Orcutt's Doc Burnstein's Ice Cream Lab made for a hugely successful day. I am ready to bus down to Orcutt in the morning and walk the 22+ miles to my 13th mission, La Purissima.

Old town Orcutt was the highlight of the day, starting with the faux water tower to house cell-phone antennas--mighty clever, as they said in the old days (check out the pic). The town is trying to project that 1904 flavor when it was established. It was named after the Union Oil Company "dean of petroleum geologist" William Warren Orcutt who BTW discovered fossils in the La Brea Tar Pits! The town was founded as a boom town riding the success of the oil production going on in the early 1900s. Orcutt was assigned to survey the area; his findings urged Union Oil to be aggressive which in turn led to huge successes.

Today's 13.3 mi. was 7.5 less than I expected--what a pleasant surprise, despite the intermittent light drizzle throughout the day! Coming out of Oceano, I gazed at the familiar vegetable fields, and couldn't resist capturing a shot of the team planting lettuce seedlings by machine. It's still a person-in-the-loop operation, but much more automated than doing it entirely by hand.

Something else that struck me as I walked the Juan Bautista de Anza Trail was that when he brought his settlers north there wasn't a single of the now ubiquitous eucalyptus trees to "greet" him. So many of my rest stops are under the shade of these tall trees. Note the picture through the eucalyptus branches where you can see an "ocean" of plastic-covered fields recently planted with strawberries. The other big attractions are the dunes off in the distance to the west. The photo doesn't do justice to their imposing expanse.

From Guadalupe I took the Flyer Bus east to Santa Maria and took a room for two nights. I'm staying in the county court house/police station area--the 2005 Michael Jackson trial comes to mind as the BIG event here 7 hears ago.

Tomorrow I'll take the bus back to Guadalupe, walk the short 10 or 12 miles to Orcutt, and take the bus north to here.

After saying goodbye to my sweetie this morning, I had a nervous feeling about the day. Could I make a nearly 16-mile day with full backpack and no safety net that she provided yesterday? My doubts weighed on me during the entire walk. Well, I did make it and am resting in the comforts of the Oceano Inn--I forewent the Oceano Campground experience tonight. The rest of the trip should proceed with greater confidence!

The slow climb out of the valley wherein San Luis Obispo is nestled ended after about nine miles at the crest of the Pismo Beach Mountains. The rewards of the climb were breathtaking views of the ocean--I'm only posting my first view. There were so many while walking a good many miles on Shell Beach Road: steep cliffs to sandy beaches and special treats are the sea stacks (hunks of rock jutting out of beach areas with erosion having removed all the material around it).