Red alert--red alert! But only for a few hours until we adjusted our plan. We had all intentions of walking only 16 km (10 mi) today to Condeixa-a-Nova passing through unimaginably beautiful pastoral scenes with cool weather in the valleys and mountainsides.

In Fonte Cuberta, the town went crazy with extravagant tile Camino markers and historical tile plaques. Just a few km before our goal, we passed Roman ruins we flagged for a return later on in the pm.

At Condeixa-a-Nova, a human tsunami came through town (literally 100s of pilgrims--most on yellow shirts and of course w/o back packs that were carried by support cars). They filled ALL the sleeping facilities! PANIC--RED ALERT! They all have to arrive at Fatima on THE BIG DAY, May 13! So we had lunch to think it out and decided to take a taxi to Coimbra (our next planned stop--for 2 nights at that). Lots to see in this university town (pop. 190,000)--siesta time right now.

Check out these pics:

Walked 12 miles today through forests, small paths, and even some asphalt--nice cool day. At Alvorge, the Cafe owner adopted us and showed us around town.

We stopped at an olive oil plant, on the way, where we got a short tour and at Rabacal we ended up staying at an albuerge whose owner also owns a cheese factory where we were treated for a short tour--interesting operation. The picture of the church is in Rabacal.

Finished our first half-stage of about 14.9 km (ca 9.3 mi) through beautiful olive orchards and rugged, undulating hills bestrewn with boulders of all sizes. Full stages are all well over 30 km (18 mi)--a little much for some.

Since we're now north of Fatima, dual pilgrim signs point in opposite directions: for Fatima in blue pointing south and for Santiago in yellow pointing north.

We're staying at the Residencial Adega Tipica (15 €/person) and downstairs they have a wonderful restaurant with traditional cooking. Just finished lunch--jam packed and a big city function going on next door at a large banquet hall with TV coverage.

A few pics along the way.

Started with a 14.6 km (9 mi) ride into this stage followed by a 20 km (12.5 mi) walk through olive orchards and cork tree groves. Beautiful landscape that rolled with the hills. Hugo was getting worried that we might ride more than walk today, but he soon became convinced that it was a respectable walk--everyone was tired at the end (2 pm).

Just up the street from the church in our target town of Alvaiazere we discovered an albuerge (10 € per person) that had just opened 8 months ago--8 beds configured as 4 rooms of 2 normal beds (no bunks). The previous 2 places were hostels (10 € and 12.5 € per person--not much difference between a hostel and an albuerge). What great deals! They all had free WI-FI. And the yellow concha (shell) and yellow arrow on blue background are now appearing everywhere (they look newly minted). Hugo felt as if he were on a real Camino! The great food and wine in the region continue to amaze. Adding to the Camino feel is a group of 6 or 7 of us that continues to run into each other.

Check out the new signs, typical stretch of cobble-stone path, and a pic of the new albuerge.

Used the extra day to visit Fatima, but before catching the bus, I climbed up to the Templar Castle and Convent of Christ. They date back to 11 hundreds and show off fantastic architecture. In my view, the rotunda church is the highlight: 16-sided building on the outside and the traditional 8-sided chapel on the inside representing the Temple Mount in Jerusalem. The Chapter window alludes to many navigational artifacts. After all, here is where the gets discoveries were planned a few hundred years later by Infante (prince) Henry: Columbus, Vasco de Gama, and the list goes on.

Fatima was as solemn as before (2008) but not nearly as many "pilgrims." I suppose these come in waves. Walked the 3-mile round trip of the stations of the cross to the place where several of the apparitions of Mary took place. Serene place to reflect on it "all." I loved it--may be one of my highlights!

Here are some of my memories (first four of Fatima and the rest at the Templar Castle and Convent--note statue of Pope John Paul II with ultra-modern sculpture of the cross behind him):

You can just feel the Knights Templar history in the town--still after 700 years. Had a short (12 km or 6 mi) walk from Golega to Atalaia (all small towns). Then prearranged wheels picked us up at 2 pm and drove us the 15 km (10 mi) to Tomar.

Mid-morning we rested in the shade of an olive tree, and a little later we ran into a deserted cluster of once splendid estates--almost eerie. Here in Tomar, we visited the synagogue, Church of St John the Baptist, and the first Templar church in the city, and then I decided to visit Fatima by myself (by bus) and meet up with Jean in the evening. Check out these pics:

Hugo and I aren't in a groove yet. Still struggling with long hot day getting pretty exhausted after 11 hours on the road and only 24 km (15 mi) to show for it. After the 15 mi of walking we took a taxi to Galega (about 8 miles) and found a great Albuerge ($10) per person. Again, everything seems to be booked because of the Fatima rush.

Vineyards all along the way. A shady spot under an array of solar panels to rest, and a special regional treat: eel in a vegetable stew--yummy!

The day started with a short train ride of maybe 8 miles or so to get us into the vicinity of Valada from where we walked to Santarem. We clocked about 14 miles in hot weather that wiped us both out. Two beers each at the end of the day and two more each with dinner finally rehydrated us.

Azambuja it turns out is another Pamplona with running of the bulls , but there's no bull fight afterwards. The pic shows the wooden barriers ready to be erected at the end of the month for the running. Had tapas last night with Portuguese style baby snails--really had to work to extract them. So many poppies on the way and we saw our first way marker (blue for Fatima and yellow Santiago). BIG rush to Fatima for important anniversary!

The landscape was filled with new seedlings and the fields had tractor traffic everywhere. Red tulip fields spiced up the landscape.

As anyone can see, Hugo was biting at the bit to get going on the Camino. We left Lisbon near 11 am, but not on foot, but rather by train (63 km = 39 mi for only 2.30 Euro). Hugo was disappointed, but understood that that was the plan--out the window, he saw an occasional pilgrim after whom he lusted. I told him to be patient--we will begin walking tomorrow. Lunch, a stop at the church, and a pilgrim's stamp at the city hall, then a visit to the library for WIFI, and a walk around town were our highlights. Love the town of Azambuja!

(PS. I updated the "video" from yesterday so that it now works!)

May Day activities were exciting with small political demo parades and performances in one of main squares. Check out my pics and my first video.

Ten minutes from our hotel, I discovered a happy place created by Botero--I absolutely love his sculptures. Check out the picture. Close by is the memorial commemorating the 1974 Revolution with a beautiful view down to the Tagus River.

The highlight of the day was going to the Cathedral to get my stamp for the credenciales, then climbing up to the Moorish Castle overlooking Lisbon and the Tagus River. On the way we saw a tree that looked about 2000 years old--knurled and trimmed back for ages to leave room for the road. Had a treat afterwards: a local sweet custard tart called pastel de nata (nata for short). Check out these pics:

Here we are in Sintra rooted in Moorish history. Twenty miles west of Lisbon, Sintra is a gem full of tourists all climbing up and down the steep streets with colorful shops and restaurants. Our highlight was a ride up to and exploring the Moorish Castle, which has breathtaking views of the city below including the National Palace of Portugal below (the two spires are the kitchen vents--only one spire can be seen in the picture)

Check out these pics:

Here you have gas prices in Euros per liter, which translates to $7.25 per gallon!'!!!!!!!!! WOW

Had a fantastic meal tonight at a place where Jean knew the chef. I asked what the best cooking style for bacalao ( heavily salt cured cod). He recommended a la Portuguese.

Results below:

Enjoyed a full day of touring by myself on the Yellow Bus Tour. It steeped me into the rich Lisbon history most notably its Age of Discovery and the HUGE 1755 earthquake that nearly destroyed everything (85%). All was rebuilt using more modern techniques rather than rebuilding a medieval city.

On the more modern side, there's evidence everywhere of their 40th anniversary celebration last Friday of reestablishing democracy after Salazar's failed "Estado Novo."

Great weather!!

After a 10-hour layover in Newark, the plane took off on Saturday the 26th. Seats were unbelievably narrow and had minimal leg room--tightest seat arrangement I've ever experienced. TAP was the carrier for United.

Arrived the 27th and made my way to our hotel in the heart of Lisbon, our base we'll be using until the 2nd of May when we'll start our walk. Met Jean and his lovely wife Carmen at the hotel. Then took her back out to the airport for her return flight to Barcelona. Waiting for her plane consumed nearly 5 hrs, after which some fun sight seeing began.

Here are some pics of the day: major Business Square, entrance to the square, steep cable car ride, view of castle, and Kurt with statue of Fernando Pessoa, the poet.

Am crashing after a long, but exciting day!

The first leg of the trip to Lisbon was tiresome, but not nearly as much as I would become two days later before getting to sleep in a real bed. Here's a stunning sunrise Saturday morning just before landing at Newark.

Relaxed today--only 8 mi (13 km) after a killer day yesterday. Visited our neighbor Sherri, in a Rehab Center now for over 2 years. I keep hoping she'll get the strength and I keep trying to inspire her to get well, but no success.

Today's 13.7 miles (22 km) were a killer, which means I'm getting close to where I want to be. The walk took me down to the Ventura Harbor. On the way I saw a bit of Nietschean humor-- check out these BMW license plates. On further, celery was frantically harvested to make the Easter dinner table. And field workers down the road wasted no time loading flats of strawberries onto trucks. Their hard work motivated me to pick up my pace.