Walked 31 km (19+ mi) all on paved roads (but much was on the muddy shoulder to avoid traffic). After Vacha there is no official waymarked trail until Paris, France. The route to there is a Google Maps creation when tying together the requisite Via Regia towns using the "walk" criterion. In Paris, recommended trails take over.
Most of the road was up and down but not as steep as that 12% stretch--that was good training for the del Norte! Lots of mining in these hills and with them the familiar "Glück Auf" greeting that miners give each other to wish them luck in opening a new lode or new rich shaft.
One of the major highlights of the day was crossing the old east-west border, even with one of the watch towers nearby. If the events in 1989 hadn't taken place, I wouldn't have been able to make this part of the journey--thank you to all who made it happen!
Am staying at a Hünefeld parish training center: a couch that's adequately comfy--see the pic. Hünefeld is a precious town with lots of Fachbau houses (exposed timber houses) that gives it a special flavor.
